Lakota hesitation
#1
I had a friend fix the float problem where the fuel runs out of the overflow tube, and since I got it back it hesitates from idle. It's worst when it's cold and gets a little better as it warms up, but never gets crisp like it should.
Does my carb have primary/secondaries? Sorry, I've never worked on a 4 wheeler carb, only vehicle carbs. If it was a vehicle I'd say too much fuel burst off idle.
Thanks,
Mike
Does my carb have primary/secondaries? Sorry, I've never worked on a 4 wheeler carb, only vehicle carbs. If it was a vehicle I'd say too much fuel burst off idle.
Thanks,
Mike
#2
You shouldn't have to open the carb back up.
But lets see were he set your float at.
Get a clear piece of hose, attach it to the drain on the bottom of the float bowl and then bend it in a U type shape. Put it up against the side of your carb, turn the fuel on and get a phillups and open the drain on the bottom of the carb.
The hose will fill with gas and stop at the level in the float bowl.
It should stop rite at the seem of the float bowl and carb base.
If you don't have a clear hose the pink one on top of the carb under the tank will do, just put it back when your done.
After that and it checks out, or your done pounding your friend into the ground, loosen the hose clamps on the carb, then twist it side ways so you can see the bottom, in the front thiers a air/fuel mixture screw (the float bowl kinda wraps around it) screw that all the way in, and then back it out to 2 1/4 turns, I believe thats factory settings, most of us have it turned out about 2 1/2 turns.
If you have to go back into the carb, let us know will let you know about a couple trick little things you can do.
Do you have any mods yet.
But lets see were he set your float at.
Get a clear piece of hose, attach it to the drain on the bottom of the float bowl and then bend it in a U type shape. Put it up against the side of your carb, turn the fuel on and get a phillups and open the drain on the bottom of the carb.
The hose will fill with gas and stop at the level in the float bowl.
It should stop rite at the seem of the float bowl and carb base.
If you don't have a clear hose the pink one on top of the carb under the tank will do, just put it back when your done.
After that and it checks out, or your done pounding your friend into the ground, loosen the hose clamps on the carb, then twist it side ways so you can see the bottom, in the front thiers a air/fuel mixture screw (the float bowl kinda wraps around it) screw that all the way in, and then back it out to 2 1/4 turns, I believe thats factory settings, most of us have it turned out about 2 1/2 turns.
If you have to go back into the carb, let us know will let you know about a couple trick little things you can do.
Do you have any mods yet.
#3
Ok,
The fuel comes back up almost to the actual point the bowl meets the carb. It's about 1 mm below it, just to the bottom of the little lip on top of the float bowl.
I screwed the a/f needle all the way in, then 2 3/8 complete revolutions back out.
It still does it. Should I continue experimenting with the a/f or something else?
Something else - I think my friend replaced the spark plug too.
No mods.
The fuel comes back up almost to the actual point the bowl meets the carb. It's about 1 mm below it, just to the bottom of the little lip on top of the float bowl.
I screwed the a/f needle all the way in, then 2 3/8 complete revolutions back out.
It still does it. Should I continue experimenting with the a/f or something else?
Something else - I think my friend replaced the spark plug too.
No mods.
#4
Thats approximately were the level should be.
I would check the plug, thier is no such thing as a pre gapped plug.
If I remember correctly it's .7mm gap wich equals I believe .028"
You deffinately have a rich condition, it could be the plug.
It sounds like the carbs alrite.
The only other thing it could be is the air filter.
But if the quad ran good when he got it, more than likely it's something he did.
I would check the plug, thier is no such thing as a pre gapped plug.
If I remember correctly it's .7mm gap wich equals I believe .028"
You deffinately have a rich condition, it could be the plug.
It sounds like the carbs alrite.
The only other thing it could be is the air filter.
But if the quad ran good when he got it, more than likely it's something he did.
#5
sorry, had to check the specs on a 98 before I had given you the wrong stuff, didn't matter all years were the same.
Plug:........NGK D8EA, this is what kawi says you probably have an R in thier some were, don't worry about that same plug but just has a resister for noise.Gap .6 to .7mm
The air fuel mixture screw is 2 1/8, were you are is just fine, they usualy need turned out more to stop back firing while coming off Idle
Sence the carb seems fine go rite to the plug, if for some reason he put a champion in thier, thats the problem.
How does the mid-range and top end run?
Plug:........NGK D8EA, this is what kawi says you probably have an R in thier some were, don't worry about that same plug but just has a resister for noise.Gap .6 to .7mm
The air fuel mixture screw is 2 1/8, were you are is just fine, they usualy need turned out more to stop back firing while coming off Idle
Sence the carb seems fine go rite to the plug, if for some reason he put a champion in thier, thats the problem.
How does the mid-range and top end run?
#6
I took the air filter out and cleaned it, no affect.
The plug has been replaced with an NGK, and it does have an R on it. I didn't measure the gap, but I did widen it, tried it with no affect (?) then closed it up further than it was, still no affect. I'd think one or the other would have affected it but I still get hesitation.
When I blip the throttle it grunts 4 or 5 times then picks up and slowly winds up.
It wasn't running the greatest beforehand, but now I think it's a little slower even.
I'm back home for the week, the lakota is at my parents'. I won't see it again until Christmas week, but go ahead and tell me what you think.
The plug has been replaced with an NGK, and it does have an R on it. I didn't measure the gap, but I did widen it, tried it with no affect (?) then closed it up further than it was, still no affect. I'd think one or the other would have affected it but I still get hesitation.
When I blip the throttle it grunts 4 or 5 times then picks up and slowly winds up.
It wasn't running the greatest beforehand, but now I think it's a little slower even.
I'm back home for the week, the lakota is at my parents'. I won't see it again until Christmas week, but go ahead and tell me what you think.
#7
well I think you should spend some time on it.
I would first pull the carb out, remove the float bowl, and remove the slide.
When removing the carb pay particular attention to how the choke cables ran and is it functioning properly, this could be a problem as well. it's easier if you apply the choke wich retracts the cable to do this.
The float had to be set for some reason either trash in the bowl or bad gas, if bad gas, ditch the gas.
Remove the slide: remove the four bolts on the top cover, inside you will find a spring and a rubber diaphram, pull on the diaphram and the slide will come out. In the slide you will find a white plastic piece wich is a needle retainer, remove this and the needle. While you have the slide out get a 3/32 drill bit, flip the slide upside down, thiers two holes, one in the center for the needle one off center wich is the slide lift hole, use the 3/32 drill bit and drill out the slide lift hole.
The bowl: remove the float bowl, remove the float, what you have left is three jets and a air/fuel mixture screw, #38 pilot jet, #58 starter jet, #140 main jet, remove all of these then clean the carb good with carb cleaner.
now just put the slide and needle assem back in, and make sure you seat the diaphram in it's groove, also the plastic needle retainer fits in a little groove you can't see, if your not in the groove the retainer will sit about 1/8" above the needle.
Put all the jets back in, if you drilled the lift hole on your slide turn the air/fuel mixture screw out 2 1/2 turns. after you put the float back in turn the carb up side down and check the float hieght, the float should be level, just like you do a car.
When installing the choke cable insure you put a little grease on the threads, but not in the hole.
Well I hope this works out for you, and I would set your valves if I were you as well, but the valves wouldn't be the problem just better the performance.
If you need some help just e-mail me or come to this forum.
Theres usualy alot of lakota guys who can help, but those lucky devils are out riding this week end!!!
I would first pull the carb out, remove the float bowl, and remove the slide.
When removing the carb pay particular attention to how the choke cables ran and is it functioning properly, this could be a problem as well. it's easier if you apply the choke wich retracts the cable to do this.
The float had to be set for some reason either trash in the bowl or bad gas, if bad gas, ditch the gas.
Remove the slide: remove the four bolts on the top cover, inside you will find a spring and a rubber diaphram, pull on the diaphram and the slide will come out. In the slide you will find a white plastic piece wich is a needle retainer, remove this and the needle. While you have the slide out get a 3/32 drill bit, flip the slide upside down, thiers two holes, one in the center for the needle one off center wich is the slide lift hole, use the 3/32 drill bit and drill out the slide lift hole.
The bowl: remove the float bowl, remove the float, what you have left is three jets and a air/fuel mixture screw, #38 pilot jet, #58 starter jet, #140 main jet, remove all of these then clean the carb good with carb cleaner.
now just put the slide and needle assem back in, and make sure you seat the diaphram in it's groove, also the plastic needle retainer fits in a little groove you can't see, if your not in the groove the retainer will sit about 1/8" above the needle.
Put all the jets back in, if you drilled the lift hole on your slide turn the air/fuel mixture screw out 2 1/2 turns. after you put the float back in turn the carb up side down and check the float hieght, the float should be level, just like you do a car.
When installing the choke cable insure you put a little grease on the threads, but not in the hole.
Well I hope this works out for you, and I would set your valves if I were you as well, but the valves wouldn't be the problem just better the performance.
If you need some help just e-mail me or come to this forum.
Theres usualy alot of lakota guys who can help, but those lucky devils are out riding this week end!!!
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#9
Wow that sounds graet, I love going to the games.
I'm trying to get suger bowl tickets from the upper brass to go see our LSU tigers.
So far we have two between our crew, but none have my name on them.
Our company has season tickets for LSU and the saints, and LSU had seven home games this year but I was home for just two.
The saints I don't go, they just braek my hart!
Not to mention thier summer camp is four miles from my house and my wife manages the restaraunt that is saints head quarters until the season starts, but still they braek my hart!!!!
I'm trying to get suger bowl tickets from the upper brass to go see our LSU tigers.
So far we have two between our crew, but none have my name on them.
Our company has season tickets for LSU and the saints, and LSU had seven home games this year but I was home for just two.
The saints I don't go, they just braek my hart!
Not to mention thier summer camp is four miles from my house and my wife manages the restaraunt that is saints head quarters until the season starts, but still they braek my hart!!!!
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