Hey Master nyroc.............
#1
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Since you seem to be the foremost authority on the p650 I was wondering if you might answer a couple of questions for me? I am thinking of replacing the ever faithfull Kodiak with a 650.Most of my buddies have 660 grizzlies now so of course I need to upgrade lol.I keep seeing all this stuff about the belt issues,if a guy rode one moderately meaning stock tires,not dunking it in every mudhole I come too is replacing that spring really needed? I am not sure why the spring is getting replaced.Is it to engage the belt sooner???
Also,do you know if Kawasaki has changed anything on the 03 model with regards to the belt? My Yamaha belt drive has been flawless and all my friends have too.I hate to buy something knowing it is going to be a problem.I probably put about 600 miles a year on a quad.This seems silly but one of the main reasons I like the 650 is the sealed rear brake.No one seems to mention that much.Any info would be appreciated.
Thanks
2000 Kodiak
1998 Wolverine
Also,do you know if Kawasaki has changed anything on the 03 model with regards to the belt? My Yamaha belt drive has been flawless and all my friends have too.I hate to buy something knowing it is going to be a problem.I probably put about 600 miles a year on a quad.This seems silly but one of the main reasons I like the 650 is the sealed rear brake.No one seems to mention that much.Any info would be appreciated.
Thanks
2000 Kodiak
1998 Wolverine
#2
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We have been replacing driven spring for 2 reasons:
1. We believe the belt lasts longer with it. The weak spring allowed more slippage which wears the belt and the sheaves.
2. Takeoff is even snappier. Turns biger tires better.
As far as I have ever read, the 03 model has the same belt drive. I have a list of things that changed in the tech tips area on my website it you want to read them.
As a prospective 650 buyer, you are concerned about belt life. Stop that. Lets discuss the belt issue, and a better understanding of how we deal with it should allow you to realize that the belt is no big deal. The the 650 has so many wonderful features, a little effort on your part and the belt will stop being an issue to you:
1. The belt comes loose from the factory to keep it from squeaking at idle. If the belt is adjusted tight, it lasts a WHOLE HECK OF A LOT LONGER than it would if it was left alone. If it should squeak, it may be just a touch too tight. The 650 has so much more torque than any other quad that it needs to have the belt tight to minimize wear.
2. The black spring increases belt life. It costs $25 and takes 30-45 minutes to install.
3. The 650 is 2 to 3 times easier work on than yamaha products to replace the belt or do any cvt work. Really, it is a no brainer. You could replace the 650 belt in 1/4 of the time. It is so easy, it makes you feel stupid for ever thinking it was hard and only the dealer can do it.
4. Why design a belt drive this way instead of the yamaha way? The yamaha system heats up the engine's oil and places abrasive clutch particles in the oil. Sure it is easier on the belt, but not on the engine. The oil filter does not protect the oil pump, just the crank, cam, valves. There is some splashing of unfiltered oil onto the piston, but most is probably filtered from the rod bearing. The transmission has to live with oil that clutch has desecrated. The oil gets broekn down faster due to the clutch friction. I am not a big fan of the Yamaha/Honda clutch system.
5. One guy claims his belt is still going strong at 2000 miles. He adjusted it tight when he installed it, and put a black spring in it.
So, if you are not willing to get the black spring and adjust the belt to the tight side of the spec, you won't get the longest life out of the belt (400 for hard use 1200 or so for easy use). But, if you take the advice of the guys around here, you can increase the belt life, and it won't ever be a problem to you.
1. We believe the belt lasts longer with it. The weak spring allowed more slippage which wears the belt and the sheaves.
2. Takeoff is even snappier. Turns biger tires better.
As far as I have ever read, the 03 model has the same belt drive. I have a list of things that changed in the tech tips area on my website it you want to read them.
As a prospective 650 buyer, you are concerned about belt life. Stop that. Lets discuss the belt issue, and a better understanding of how we deal with it should allow you to realize that the belt is no big deal. The the 650 has so many wonderful features, a little effort on your part and the belt will stop being an issue to you:
1. The belt comes loose from the factory to keep it from squeaking at idle. If the belt is adjusted tight, it lasts a WHOLE HECK OF A LOT LONGER than it would if it was left alone. If it should squeak, it may be just a touch too tight. The 650 has so much more torque than any other quad that it needs to have the belt tight to minimize wear.
2. The black spring increases belt life. It costs $25 and takes 30-45 minutes to install.
3. The 650 is 2 to 3 times easier work on than yamaha products to replace the belt or do any cvt work. Really, it is a no brainer. You could replace the 650 belt in 1/4 of the time. It is so easy, it makes you feel stupid for ever thinking it was hard and only the dealer can do it.
4. Why design a belt drive this way instead of the yamaha way? The yamaha system heats up the engine's oil and places abrasive clutch particles in the oil. Sure it is easier on the belt, but not on the engine. The oil filter does not protect the oil pump, just the crank, cam, valves. There is some splashing of unfiltered oil onto the piston, but most is probably filtered from the rod bearing. The transmission has to live with oil that clutch has desecrated. The oil gets broekn down faster due to the clutch friction. I am not a big fan of the Yamaha/Honda clutch system.
5. One guy claims his belt is still going strong at 2000 miles. He adjusted it tight when he installed it, and put a black spring in it.
So, if you are not willing to get the black spring and adjust the belt to the tight side of the spec, you won't get the longest life out of the belt (400 for hard use 1200 or so for easy use). But, if you take the advice of the guys around here, you can increase the belt life, and it won't ever be a problem to you.
#3
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Man nyroc........thanks for all the info!!The only thing that confuses me is your statement about yamahas clutch being internal.I was under the impression it was external..Oh well...I am someone who does his own work and am not afraid to work on my own stuff.......I just don't want to be doing it all the time[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] Also.....like I said......one of the main reasons I like this 4 wheeler is the sealed brake.I have to put brakes on my kodiak every 150 miles or so.....if that involves alot of mud holes.Thats even trying to stay off the rear brakes.Seems like I remember seeing something about having to service the rear diff after 10 hours or so and that people were having trouble getting the correct fluid.Thanks again........like someone else said here.......it appears I may be slipping to the dark side..LOLOLOLOLOL
2000 kodiak
1998 Wolverine
2000 kodiak
1998 Wolverine
#4
#5
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kodiac1...I have installed 3 of the EPI spings on 650's...All of them put together was easier than helping a friend put an EPI Clutch kit on his 660...660's internal clutch is much harder to work on and even with the EPI Kit, it will not hook up near as fast as a stock 650. The 660 does have a smoother ride but if I did it again, I would get the 650 again, it is just more fun and the belt is really easy to work on. I have 700 hard miles on mine and have only worked on the clutch/belt once.
#6
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I have 500mi on my prairie. adjusted the belt once. takes about the same amount of time as changing the brakes on your kodiak. so basically if you figure that the pairies brakes last almost forever and you only have to adjust the belst ever so often every 500 miles or so then that is still less maintenance than doing the brakes on your kodiak every 150mi. Plus it doesnt cost anything to adjust the belt if you have the right tools. say if you had to replace the belt at 1000(can usually get 2000mi on a belt) miles thats $90. in 1000mi on your kodiak the brakes would cost you about $210. That would be 7 sets of brake pads. So if you can see what i am figuring here it would actually be less maintenance on the prairie. I thought thru this same process as you when i decided to buy a prairie. I looked at it this way. The prairie is basically bullet proof except for the occasional belt adjustment. Sounded like a winner to me. And i still dont regret buying it. Just makes me happier i did every time i ride it. Hope i have helped and you can understand my twisted way of thinking, LOL.
#7
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#9
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<< Master Nyroc is still unemployed, and doesn't really have money for gas. Otherwise I would be going to some of those places. I am getting some job action, but no offers yet. >>
Didn't know you were laid of, sorry bout that. Don't know what you do or if you would relocate, but there should be a few good jobs opening up in engineering/surveying and construction in the area of the Hatfield McCoy Trails.
#10
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nyroc-- Sorry to hear of the no job situ. Hopefully that is VERY temporary. Well, this time on your hands can be put to good use: researching MORE good stuff for your site!LOL
Good luck in your job search!
If you get a job before T/Gvng, maybe you could make it to H/M for RubiconBob's 3rd annual Turkey Ride(or ride of the turkeys??!!??), on the Sat. following T/Gvng. I rode it last year---AWESOME.
Good luck in your job search!
If you get a job before T/Gvng, maybe you could make it to H/M for RubiconBob's 3rd annual Turkey Ride(or ride of the turkeys??!!??), on the Sat. following T/Gvng. I rode it last year---AWESOME.
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