Where can I find an oil injection block of plate for the LT80 (89)? I have searched but came up with nothing.

Where can I find more information on the clutch mod also please?

 

What do you want to know about clutch mods?
I can tell you that there is not much to do with the clutchs till there is motor work to drive them.

 

Jack, I don't understand. I am not familiar with the lt80 and don't pretend to be as knowledgeable, but everone I've talked to seems to think the rollers and springs help even without porting? Is that wrong? I'm about to spend money on them, so I'm real curious.

Will the higher rpm's not compliment a race pipe?

 

Taking for granted that your motor is stock:::
There are no more RPM's. A race pipe "may"make a few more RPMs. The FMF is prolly the best pipes for a stock motor, but it's the worst once the motor is modded. I don't recommend this pipe unless you will stay stock.
I consider tha LT80 a grunt monster off the line stock. We adjust (lighten) the roller weight to allow the motor to get to it's turn-on point, then have the clutchs engage.Thus nothing to be gained with roller weight adjustment on a stock motor, It's turn on point is at idle "so to speak".
The spring is to make sure the rear clutch closes when decreasing speed AND compresses on a consistant basis..The stock spring heats up and compresses early and don't close when decreasing speed (but works well with a stock motor). A aftermarket rear spring will have too much pressure and you will not be able to compress it with a stock motors power, thus you will go slower.
Yes I have given advice to remove 2 of the 6 rollers for stock. This helps some, some don't notice a difference. Some say it's slower. With a big spring, you will need MORE weight than stock, not less, like with my (or others) ported motors.
The only way to make more speed is to mod the rear clutch pulley travel. This allows the belt to ride higher in the front/smaller in rear.This mod will work with a stock motor, the rest is useless for stock.
If your motor is modded, tell me and explain what you want to improve on. I'll try to point you in the right direction to save money and do it right the first time. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
Hope that helped explain. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

Pipe, high compression head and 20mm keihin so far. Was told to get some 4.5-5.4 gram rollers and yellow springs.

Just want more power in general but I hope to shift it to off the line acceleration (whether through gearing or rollers). It can top out at 20 for all I care.

Anyway, just saw your post on porting and was wondering.

ps- Just assumed those were lighter rollers?

 

What about the Oil Block Off? Where do you get one?

Thanks KD

 

If it's like mine you just need to remove the gear that runs the pump.

 

Block-off=ebay [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

Raptorlegs: With what you have done to your machine, I can tell you that some roller weight adjustments can be made. Can I also presume that we're talking the 100 maxfine?
If so, here's where I'd start::
I'd take a compression reading to know exactly what the compression is. (I just like to know) This may effect what octane fuel you are running.
I'd try weighing the rollers you have now and removing 1-2-3 to see what it does and learn approx which weight helps/don't help.
What we are doing here is adjusting to the pipe.
As far as springs go, the springs that go on the rear clutch shoes may be the ones to get instead of the main drive spring.
I can see I was long winded [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] sorry.

 

I sent you a PM in regards to the motor work LT80. I have done a lot of searching but can only find vauge references on what needs done, nothing technical.

 

Yes, it's the Maxfine. I always heard to remove 3 (which seems extreme). Didn't realize you could just take out one or two. I guess just assumed it would throw it off balance or something. Thanks for the info! I'll try it! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]