I'm wondering if there is much of a difference in running one oil or the other. I understand it's not good to mix/change oil brands so I want to use what is best for the SP 90. That's if it makes any real difference to begin with.
Thoughts?

 

I use full synthetics in all my ohv's, after the break in period only. Except the ktm, it gets full synthetic from day one.

 

Atv's are used in an extreme environment, it pays to use a full synthetic. Stick with manufacturers recommended weight. I like Mobile 1 or Amsoil, Mobile 1 you can get at Walmart. www.amsoil.com they have air and oil filters as well.

 

How much is it at Wal-mart for the full synthetic? At my dealer it was 35.00. Ouch. Maybe I need to shop around a bit to find where to buy the stuff so it's affordable. A Syn/blend was 18.00 at the Polaris dealer. A big difference.

 

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For factory Oil Injection systems, many recommend what the mini-quad factory recommends. For the Pred-90 / SP-90, I think it's Polaris Premium Injection Oil. My local Honda dealer doesn't use his Honda Injection Oil in his Honda engines. He recommends a Bombadier Oil Injection oil. He likes this brand of injecter oil over Honda's Injection Oil. And, he tells me this other oil costs much less. If wondering, I use to use this Bombadier Oil Injection oil in our Pred-90 for over 1 year. Some folks use Yamaha Injection oil in non-Yamaha brands as well.

If you removed your factory Oil Injection system and thus doing pre-mix, the favorite Pre-mix brands seem to be Amsoil, Motul 600, Maxima 927 Castor, VP C12, Maxima Super M and Maxima K2. Depending upon the specific brand of oil, some have to run at 32:1 and some have to run near 45:1. Check Spark Plug color (starting at 32:1) and tweak the ratio down until you reach a "beer bottle brown" spark plug colour.

I've read that Maxima 927 castor separates at low weather temperatures. This oil is made for mid to hot climates.

For low RPMs minor trail / around the house riding conditions, almost any brand of Oil Injection or Pre-Mix will "get one by" if they run out of their favorite stuff.

Once you select a favorite brand of oil (injection or pre-mix), try to stay with that brand. This will allow you to better tweak the oil ratio, tweak the jets in your carb (if needed) and obtain a consistant running foundation. Just like switching gasoline type back / forth, too much changes all the time can drive an engine nuts.


Hope this helps...

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$35.00 a quart? Wow. What brand was that? Are we talking 2-stroke injector/pre mix oil here or transmission oil?

 

Sorry, it was 35$ a gal. for an Artic Cat brand. What are you paying?

 

I've read / heard not to use syn. type oils designed for power valves on mini quad motors. Believe it has to do with additive contents. Amsoil if I'm understanding brochure backs this up as they suggest Dominator oil for pre-mix. I have used Arctic Cat standard injection oil for years in all my 2-stroke motors. Works good as pre-mix or not. I use almost all my toys winter and summer, it won't seperate in the pre-mix and will flow in low temps so will still work on the injected toys. This is one reason why you don't want to use outboard oils for cold weather use. They don't pump good and additive package can seperate out on cold weather plus other reasons.

IMHO I DON"T believe in changing mix ratio to get a good plug color. You need to know the difference between oil fouling and fuel fouling. If an oil is rated say 50:1 that means it will offer protection up to 50:1. not to use 50:1 if your engine manufactor recommends 32:1 etc. Oil does so much more then just lube your engine it also removes alot of heat. You need to change jetting to tune by plug color and this isn't always a good indicator. Things like piston wash and other variables are important. If your not racing for #1 at higher level racing or have deep pockets then get close on the rich side and enjoy the sport.The best and only way to get right on with jetting is digital EGT sensors. Anyway all anyone can do is learn as much as they can and be ready to learn more.

Pick the oil and mix you are going to use and stay with it. If you break and engine in with one type and mix and change things then all the internal temps and clearances change and things have to break in again so to speak. Only exception would be to do initial break in with comventional oils and then change to synthetic. Makes the break in process much faster.

 

Bengen:
My dealer recommended a Torco SPO synthetic blend. It's a 2 cycle snowmobile oil. Which would work well for Idaho as we have many cold days from Nov. to March. Or to use a Artic Cat synthetic oil for 34.99. Is the stuff you use a synthetic blend?

 

Thats pretty good. I pay 8.99 per quart. I use Torco GP7, have used it for 25 yrs now. Never fouled a plug and very little wear upon tear down. I mix it at 40 to 1.