Have several questions. First of all when running through water not hardly up to footrests it starts to sputter and running slowly. Its not like its in deep water. Is there anything I can do. Also I need to tighten up the chain. Is this hard and how tight do you tighten it. Also I cant seem to adjust the front brakes. THANKS. Also When changing the spark plug when putting on the spark plug wire it doesnt seem to pop on. You cant really tell if you have it on good or not.

 

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If you run a mini through water that's below its running boards and its engine starts to sputter, it sounds like a bad connection in its wiring. To help eliminate bad connections (and lower spikes / brown outs back into its stator coils), you should apply dielectric grease (12V automotive stuff) to every electrical plug, connector and electrical contact point you can reach. Under the steering column, there's a large bundle of wiring. Very hard to reach from the right side of the mini. But well worth un-doing and applying dielectric "stuff" to these items too. Only unplug / junk and re-plug one wire at a time. Thus, eliminate what wire goes where confusion.

Chains do stretch when new. For proper chain tension, check your manual. If I remember correctly, the '05 does come with a Spring Loaded chain tensioner. Ensure the factory chain tension is working properly. Some replace the factory chain tensioner with a much better one from HPD. Might be worth investigating. See second picture down within: http://www.hpd-inc.com/misc.htm

Many factory chains are "average quality". To me, the chain on our '03 Pred-90 was junk. It stretched so bad, I ended up buying the HPD chain tensioner and eventually upgrading to a HD O-Ring chain. For info on our 0-Ring HD chain, surf: http://community.webshots.com/photo/...59301449flvBHa

If you are thinking about changing / upgrading your chain, another option is to also change sprockets. To create less top end / more bottom end without fussing with its clutch / rollers, we changed our sprockets at the same time. For a few pictures, surf: http://community.webshots.com/album/284402100NAfkOS

If doing lots of mud running, the front drums of the Pred-90 do fill up with mud. If mud / crud gets in the drums, the young rider must squeeze the hand lever much harder. Thus inturn makes the cables stretch more then usual. All cables do stretch. Even an emergency brake cable on a vehicle. If your hand lever adjustments are most of the way out, you'll have to screw them all the way back in, then move the front wheel cable levers forward 1 notch. For a picture, surf: http://community.webshots.com/photo/...76403812dYapYx

When re-adjusting the hand lever screw adjustments, ensure they are in a 90 degree postion. This puts less stress on the upper cables. Thus, reducing the risk of jaming or unnecessary stretching. For a picture, surf: http://community.webshots.com/photo/...76404413cmdoDv

Your spark plug cap should lightly snap / firmly fit on. If it feels "too loose", then you may have to replace the cap. And don't forget to put electrical dielectric grease in the spark plug cap. Many say this helps as well.


Hope this and drill down pictures help....

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Thanks this is a lot information. We have a 2003 90 predator. The first thing im going to do is grease all the electrical plugins. Also ours does have have chain tensioner. In the manual it mentioned 4 nuts too loosen and then turn a screw clockwise to tighten chain. Well as far as the brakes are concerned them screws doesnt seem too want to adjust. Do I need to adjust out both screws. A thin nut then a thicken nut. When I adjut out the brakes work but the brake lever wants to stick. I cant seems to feel the spark plug wire snap on at all. THANKS

 

Yes. On its brake handle lever screw adjustments, you need to unscrew the thin washer type "lock nut" first. With a pair of pipe pliers, turn this screw in normal thread direction. It only needs 1/2 turn to loosen. Then, you can turn the inner adjustment barrel screw.

Also check the brake pad thickness. If you plan to replace your rear pads, I've heard that groved pads work better. Someone once told me that groved pads on the front still get plugged with mud. For pictures, surf:
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...87409426LszXqI
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...84415134XGTyEf
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...84422768ZnUEIs

To view how I had to modify my '03 Pred-90 factory chain guard to make our HPD Spring Loaded chain tensioner fit (while keeping the guard), surf many pictures within: http://community.webshots.com/album/108721500mjHKZk
Note: Click on each thumbnail picture to enlarge it. At the bottom of each picture, click "View Full Size". If you want original pictures, send me your internet email via PM. I'll email you the pictures. Thus, you can zoom in using your PC viewing tools.

On both of your Pred-90, remove the rear guard and investiage the 45 degree bracket that holds the upper rear guard on. I read 2 posts where this bracket stops the rear brake from working properly. Next time you are near a welder, you may want to change this support bracket to a 90 degree angle. To view pictures, surf: http://community.webshots.com/album/284408738FRgcEq
For us, we proactively make this engineering design better.

For sticking brake cables, remove the entire cable and place in a can of gasoline (or varsol if gas is too expensive in your woods) for 48+ hours. This helps remove dirt / crud. Then, re-lube them with thin oils. Many use WD-40. If your brake cables continue to stick after this, you may have to replace them.


Hope this info helps as well....

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I have an 03 pred 90 also and sounds like the sputtering when going throu water is that the spark plug is grounding out in the water so you might want to try some silicone around the plug and boot to seal it on. To adjust the chain loosen the 4 bolts, have your child sit on it and adjust it so it has alittle play. To adjust the rear brake turn the wing nut down by the rear brake drum. If you run through water alot you might also want to silicone the air filter halves together so no water can seep in.

 

Thanks, does it feel like your spark plug pops on. I cant feel like a snap that I know its on. Ok what kind of silicone and where exactly do I put it. Also going to put the dielectic grease on the electrical fittings. Going out in a minute and try to adjust the chain. Also going to try to adjust the front brakes. Thanks for everyones help I'm going to give it a try. Not to mechanically inclined as you can tell.

 

Wouldn't ask, but one guy couldn't get his to snap on and it turned out he didn't remove the metal cap from the new plug? Should be threaded on the end.

 

Hey Raptorlegs,

Leaving the steel cap on the replacement plug and trying to fit the rubber boot back on. That's a good one!!!!! I did that once. And only once. That's what happens when one works in a dark garage and they're in a hurry. Thanks for mentioning this one. It brought back a good memory...

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Well guess what that was the problem with the spark plug. Took the metal cap off the end and it went right on. Rode it some and it seemed to work off a little bit but much better. Why do they put that metal cap on there anyway. You reckon thats why it would sputter in water. You think I should still put that dielectric grease on it and other electrical fittings. THANKS

 

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On the Pred-90 brand, dielectric grease on all electrical transfer or "contact areas" are mandatory. Minimum once a year. If you are a water / mud runner, then twice a year. It will "save" your stator in the long run. For more details, surf my replies within: http://forums.atvconnection.com/mess...eyword1=stator

Hope this helps as well...

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