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Calling on you mini clutch gurus

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Old May 8, 2005 | 12:48 PM
  #1  
fishslab's Avatar
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Default Calling on you mini clutch gurus

Ok guys I'm working on a different animal and I am looking for some ideas. I am working on the Polaris Phoenix 200cc 4 stroke. It uses a very similar clutch system to the Etons and LTs, more like the Eton though. It is just larger. The symptom I am trying to correct is early shift out. I believe it is totally shifted out too early in the RPM range. From what I remember that is controled by the rollers. I have a spare set to experiment with . Making them lighter should delay shiftout right? They each weigh 14.5g and there are six. How much weight should I remove? I think engagement is ok. That is controled by shoe weight and shoe springs right? A new compression spring may be in order too? I have no idea where to find one of those. Let me know what you think and thanks.
 
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Old May 8, 2005 | 01:38 PM
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Default Calling on you mini clutch gurus

You could, as an experiment, remove three of the six rollers and see how it performs. That would most likely be to light, but you would see what effect it would have and give you something to go by.
 
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Old May 8, 2005 | 03:06 PM
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Default Calling on you mini clutch gurus

I agree that roller weight should be expieremented with. I would remove 2 to start and see what it does. Depending on the results, you may want to try 5 rollers.
I wouldn't mess with anything else till all that's tried.
 
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Old May 8, 2005 | 04:51 PM
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Default Calling on you mini clutch gurus

You see, that's why I asked you guys. Never even considered removing rollers, even though I did it on my Eton before. That just makes sense. Thanks newnick and LT80. That should be a very good start.
 
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Old May 9, 2005 | 02:20 PM
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Default Calling on you mini clutch gurus

cvts attempt to hold the rpms constant throughout the range of the sheaves adjustability. when you run out of ratio at the top end (front sheaves together, rear sheaves fully apart), you're essentially in top gear. the only adjustment you have left to control speed/rpm is final gearing. out of the hole, you can play with the three rear tension springs to delay the hit, or increase the stall speed before the clutches grab to get a harder holeshot.

to adjust the shift-speed you can alter the roller weights or rear compression spring. the rollers are for fine tuning, the big spring is to make sure you have enough apply pressure (for mod'ed motors) not to slip. the idea here is to nail the shift-speed rpm just right so it coincides with where your motor makes peak power. i'd be surprised if it was way off from the factory if the machine is stock, unless something is broke.

if you know the rpm you want, and know the rpm you're at, then you can estimate roller weight like this-

new weight = old weight * ( old rpm / desired rpm ) ^2

 
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