So the 2000 was working, just with low compression? And they destroyed the piston during their "examination"? And then wanted to be paid (either in cash or by abandoning the unit to them) for their destruction? Wow. That's a lot of gall. It went in working, it came out broken, here it is in pieces, and here's your bill. Nice.

If the engine would run, albeit with low compression, then I can't understand why they needed to destroy the piston to remove it. By definition, it could move up and down within the cylinder. Heck, even if all you could do was crank the engine (without actually running) you know for certain the piston wasn't seized. I'd be tempted to make them buy you a new piston.

Anyway, I'd rebuild the unit with a new piston, rings, rod, and head gasket. Perhaps have the head surfaced since it's off anyway. Once things are back together, check your compression again. The above may fix it. You'll have a good engine again and will have learned something important about that dealer: "Never again".

 

My turn. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
I understand the warranty issue with the dealer. As far as cost, the posted prices are good (from the forum members).
I don't rebuild the cranks. They are hard to get straight again. I recommend a new crank should you decide to do the bottom end. By the time you spend the labor to rebuild the crank, for a lil more you can have a new straight one.
Parts:: crank about $130 (didn't look it up).
For a shop to remove the motor and split it, I can see $400. at $50 or so an hour, that's prolly fair (unfortunatly). You could save alot if you remove the motor from the machine.
$400 for parts is another thing*cough cough*rip off*cough cough. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] I see it as $100 too much.
The side to side play of the crank will tell you how bad the crank is. If it is way loose, you will actually be able to feel the slop up and down. If so, the rod bearing is bad (lower).
I see cranks loose and they run for years. Again, side to side (alot) or up and down is bad..period.
FYI: spliting the cases is something better left to someone that's done it before.
I feel you may only need bore/pistons.
Use all zuki parts including the pistons.
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

Thanks LT80 sounds like what I have decided to do may work out.....I ordered a new piston kit and head gaskets ...I will throw it back together this weekend and let you guys know how it went...BTW what way does the arrow point on the piston when I put it back in?...towards the front or the back?...

 

Arrows always point toward the exhaust. Don't think front or back, it'll cost money! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
I hope your getting new piston pin bearings.
New cir-clips too. They seem to fly around the room and get lost at times. LMAO

 

Yeah got new piston pin(they destroyed it) , bearings and clips......duhh of course it will be faster with the arrow facing towards the exhaust... thanks..Mark