Hello - new to forum, but have been doing a lot of searching on the subject. I have a '99 LT80 that started running crappy. At first, it would die when trying to idle. I cleaned the carbe and it still didn't run right. It actually idled high, but I couldn't find any vaccum leaks, I did a compression test and only had about 80lbs, so I tore it down. The intake side of the piston was scared up pretty good and the dome had some carbon build up. So it looks like I'm doing some work. Here is what I am thinking -

Bore the cylinder the next size up, not sure how much is acceptable. It is untouched.

Shave the head .030

New Suzuki piston to match bore, rings, upper rod bearing, pin and clips.

Do you think I should go more on the cylinder? Not sure if there are any power gains to be had, just a thought. I run 32:1 synthetic oil.

How about the air filters on these. I have the stock, foam filter, but it was not oiled. Do the stock filters get oiled?

I also tore the front clutch apart. The rollers are flat and the grease was full of sand. This led to scaring on the cage and rollers, so they will be changed and replaced with 4 rollers. Is shaving the rear clutch to 180 grams necessary?

Any other ideas or thing I could do that won't break the bank. I went from selling this cause we are having our second child to deciding to keep it and getting it running right. The wife isn't happy thinking about throwing a bunch of money at it......Thanks for the help...Sy

 

Welcome to the forums. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
Sounds like a good plan. Stick to the first bore over. A .5 piston is the first size over.
Yes the filter should be oiled.
32:1 is good.
4 rollers:: some like it, some not. It's a personnal thing. Same with the 180 grams on the rear shoes. Try the rollers and see if it runs out acceptable to you.

With parts and the bore, this should cost you about $130 +/-.. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

when you purchase the rollers make sure you get all 6. I removed the 2 and it didnt work for me. but the rear weights made the diffrence. slight tug on the bars and front wheels are off the ground. the rest sounds great. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

Thanks for the feedback. A lot of the reading was based on Jack's posts...

Sounds like I'll stick with the first bore. When I ask for the piston am I asking for a .5 piston or "so many (thousands) over"?

I'll probably get all 6 rollers and play with it to see where I like it. What about the springs on the rear clutch? Do they need to be changed if they ar shaved to 180?

When I got this quad, the stock filter was dry, no oil and it was dirty. Is this how they are intended or should they be oiled?

Thanks again...I'll keep you updated.....

 

ya jack is the man. I have him on speed dial. you can try with the 4 rollers. but it didnt make a diffrence. For me. I have the stock springs on the back and its fine. YES oil the filter. I use tranny fluid for mine. with a uni filter.

 

Thanks onebigzj. Didn't mean to minimize your knowledge there, just saw you had a moored lt80 and read a lot of info from him.....

I have no details on shaving the back weights. Do you have any specifics on where to take the weight off? I guess I need a scale that reads grams.......

I always thougth that was strange with the filter. Once I serviced it, I did oil it, but that time it was dry (for who knows how long with previous owner) probably contributed to my scaring and issues that I am now repairing.

So is the zj a landcruiser thing?

 

I used a metal chop box and cut the end of 1/2 way between end and pad. and drilled first chop cut a little and weigh. chop alittle more just so you dont cut off too much. then drill 1/4 inch holes to get all them to 180. yes a gram scale is mandatory. after the first one the rest come very easy. putting oil in the filter catches the little particales from getting in the motor. any more ? just ask. as for the zj. Iv got a 98 jeep grand with long arm kit on 33" tires. just click on the camera under my icon on the left to see my pics

 

Thanks, I dropped the cylinder and head off today. Should be $70 total, plus parts. .030 off the head and a .5 piston. Jack, probably right at about $130 for the cylinder and head stuff. I forgot about my local shop that I usually get stuff from. I called and they do service work, at quite a bit less than the dealers. Nice guys too, so I don't feel as bad giving them my money!

The clutch is another story....I order new rollers and cage for the front. On the back clutch, the pads and drums are pretty grooved up. Do you think sanding them flat and emry cloth on the drum will be adequate or should it be turned or replace?

Still have to address my carb issue. It was running high after a cleaning last year, no matter where I set it, it was always high and would never idle down. I've ordered new reeds and O rings for the spacer. Also thinking about a lower main jet like discussed on other posts. It is ridden mainly between sea level and 1000', the dunes being the most common. Any other things that could keep the idle up?

Thanks again........Sy, oh and I didn't even think about the Jeep thing onebigzj, I was hoping you were referring to hzj (turbo diesel cruiser).

 

sounds good. and yes that is part of the maintance with the clutches. the pads sand them just to scuff them not sand them down. the drum you can leave alone its fine. as for the front clutch I have an extra one that is good. pm me and we will figure it out. as for carb jack might chime in on what he would recommend for jets. your saying that it wouldent idle for you it was always reving? sounds like you might have lost the o-ring cousing a lean mixture.

 

Well, I just ponied up for the clutch parts I need or I would have bought the used one....oh well, just under $60 for the clutch, but it's new. I got the drive face, the plate, rollers and seal. Everything else was good.

With the carb, it was running poorley last year and hard to start, probably a lot was due to the compression issue I would guess. It would act like it was loading up and then just die. I had to feather the throttle to keep it running.

I took it apart and cleaned it. I changed one o ring on the front side of the spacer. I think the reed has another one, but I didn't change it. It was still difficult to start (compression probably) but once running, the idle was really high. It would never idle down to normal speed no matter what I tried. I adjust the cable, the screw and nothing. The other o ring looks ok, but who knows.

I'll tear into it next. That's why I was inquiring about whether the 90 jet sounded right.

Maybe Jack has a thought or does that shed some light on anything?