Submerged In Water
#1
#2
Submerged In Water
get it Home and drain all the fluids, clean the air box out,remove the sparkplug and spray plenty of WD40 into the cylinder and pull crank the engine over and let the WD40 clean the cylinder. Leave everything open for a couple days, and put it back to gather.
best shot you have.
best shot you have.
#3
Submerged In Water
If it was completely submerged, empty gas tank and drop float bowl unplug your electrical connection blow the out. open any inline fuse as well. After you have waited a few days to let things dry out and put fresh oil in and start it check out your oil for water after you have ran it. If it looks like chocolate milk at all chang your fluids again. Good luck!
#4
Submerged In Water
Here is what I have done so far. Plulled the plug, drained the oil and the fuel. When I drained the oil and fuel water came pouring out. How do I get the water out of the cylinder, do I need to pull the head off? Also what about the pipe, I have a procircuit pipe on it, will it need to be repacked? Thanks for the responses also what long term problems am I going to be dealing with?
#5
Submerged In Water
The head will empty when the motor turns over. Like mentioned, a lil WD is a good thing.
Do like the grump said and pay special attention to electrical connections. That is where you will get any long term effects.
You'll prolly need to remove and clean the carb.
The packing will be swelled w/water. It'll dry out but for a few bucks, I'd re-pack.
Do like the grump said and pay special attention to electrical connections. That is where you will get any long term effects.
You'll prolly need to remove and clean the carb.
The packing will be swelled w/water. It'll dry out but for a few bucks, I'd re-pack.
#6
Submerged In Water
Mix a couple of ounces of 'dry gas' (it's alcohol) in with both the crankcase oil and the gas when refilling. (water and alcohol mix together, oil and alcohol mix together) This will 'carry off' any small water deposits that may be 'lurking' around.
Also buy new DOT3 break fluid and flush the old brake fluid out by bleeding the brakes till new 'clear' fluid appears. A small capful of alcohol into the brake reservoir before starting the bleed process might be good also - but, make sure that you completely bleed it thru until you get new fluid and probably a few extra bleed cycles.
Also buy new DOT3 break fluid and flush the old brake fluid out by bleeding the brakes till new 'clear' fluid appears. A small capful of alcohol into the brake reservoir before starting the bleed process might be good also - but, make sure that you completely bleed it thru until you get new fluid and probably a few extra bleed cycles.
#7
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#9
Submerged In Water
All brake systems master cylinder reservoirs are 'vented' to atmospheric pressure - otherwise the would NOT work !!!!
ALL master cylinder caps have small 'passages' that 'breath' air in and out each time that the master cylinder is depressed and released. When the cylinder is stroked down to 'push' fluid down the lines to expand the wheel cylinders - it 'sucks' replacement fluid from the bottom of the reservoir - thus the fluid level in the reservoir goes down - if replacement air was not let into the top of the reservoir to replace the lower fluid level, this would produce a 'vacuum' and the master cylinder wouldn't pump the fluid to the wheel cylinders.
The next time that you have the top off ANY master cylinder - look closely at the 'passage ways' molded into the rubber lining on the underside of the cap.
ALL master cylinder caps have small 'passages' that 'breath' air in and out each time that the master cylinder is depressed and released. When the cylinder is stroked down to 'push' fluid down the lines to expand the wheel cylinders - it 'sucks' replacement fluid from the bottom of the reservoir - thus the fluid level in the reservoir goes down - if replacement air was not let into the top of the reservoir to replace the lower fluid level, this would produce a 'vacuum' and the master cylinder wouldn't pump the fluid to the wheel cylinders.
The next time that you have the top off ANY master cylinder - look closely at the 'passage ways' molded into the rubber lining on the underside of the cap.