Ok heres what I have, working on a lt 50 and everytime I tighten the clutch bolt its either too lose and it spins off as soon as its started, or its too tight and the rear wheels are always locked. I've never messed with a centrifugal clutch before on a quad. It ran out of gas and was being towed back when the rear wheels locked up, (wife didn't know that you cant tow it) by then you could start it up and it was always locked into gear. It seems that the easy things always cause me to lose hair, so any info would be great.

Fender

 

you must shim the clutch so it lines up properly and you can tighten nut i would also recommend using locktite on threads(be careful not to get any on clutch)

 

Yeah its lined up properly, I had to use my 1/2in impact to get the nut off. I'm thinking that when she towed it the pressure plate got damaged. (i think its a pressure plate for the nut to keep it tight not sure though) Thanks for the response, I'm gonna send my wife up to the Suzuki dealer with it and see what they have to say. They hardly know me but she's a regular there. Now if she would just bring me home the z400.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

i would like to know what the outcome was...
I know it was 3 years ago..
later,
Chad

 

The outer clutch basket is prevented from spinning with the crankshaft (except when the centrifugal clutch shoes are flung out by crank speed) because the basket spins freely on a spacer which rides on the crankshaft & is retained by the large nut the previous poster mentioned. The basket has to spin freely on the spacer, which means the spacer must be a slip fit in the clutch basket, & must be very slightly longer than the center of the clutch basket. When the outer clutch basket is locked to the crankshaft you get the "in gear all the time" symptom. Two possible causes:
1. Insufficient lubrication caused by poor or low oil, or excessively high ground speed when towing causes spacer to gall & stick itself to the clutch basket.
2. Large nut is overtightened & crushes the spacer making it shorter & fatter, which locks the spacer to the clutch basket.
Solution: Smooth & hone basket & spacer to make a slip fit. Make sure the spacer is slightly longer than the thickness of the center of the clutch hub (you could replace the spacer, if necessary, or very slightly shorten the back of the clutch basket (where the gear is) with a whet stone. This isn't rocket science, so don't get hung up trying to make this a precision job. I don't know the correct torque for thus nut, but it isn't much. Good idea, after you have completed repairs, to thoroughly clean the threads on the nut & crankshaft, & coat with blue loctite, then use a torque wrench to tighten this nut to the spec in your owner's/service manual. I'd guess the correct torque is above 12 ft lbs, but below 20 ft lbs. By the way, lube the spacer when you reassemble - a molybdenum sulphide assembly lube is very good..
Clark