yeap, from start to finish it took 3.5 hours, and i'm mechanically retarded. Of course i'm not counting the 2 hours i spent looking for a socket to remove the header nuts?##$%%^$@# I finally got em off with a 3/8 drive, 5/16 12pt socket but doubt i can get em back on with that. Does anyone know what the exact socket required is? Maybe better to replace them with hex nuts?
I've had my 'bull 1 year and 3 days with about 260 riding hours. Found a broken airbox seal a couple months ago and I think sucking dust for who knows how long caused serious ring and maybe piston/sleeve wear cause she has been smoking/using oil. Still fast but not as fast, and the smoke is embarassing! After studying the motor manual with an eye toward rebuilding her myself i'll be dropping the motor off at my dealer and making him responsible for it! While it's out i'm going to do the crankcase vent routing update, reroute the tranny vent higher,rebuild clutch, buy some new plastic(just for a change) and get some front wheels/tires/tierods/ends to hopefully make her smoother than new. If you are thinkiin my 'dales kinda ragged, you'd be right [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] But she has NEVER failed to start or given me problems. She sat for the last 6 weeks untouched and still fired right up!
I gotta say that i Love my cannibal and will likely by another dale in the next year. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
Questions are: in order of importance
How do you get the injectors out of the intake?
What is my best choice for tie rods/ends? Some of you are running 400ex parts?
If you've removed your 'DALE ENGINE, how long did it take?
Thanks!

 

Ryan,
The first time I dropped my motor it took me about 2.5 hours. I know what you mean about the header bolts...major pain....seemed that once I dropped the subframe that it was a lot easier to get at them though. Anyways, last time I dropped the motor I was in a hurry to replace the broken shift shaft so I could finish my racing season, didn't adjust the valves or anything.

I am pulling the motor again this weekend, so you and I can work through it together.....maybe we can help each other answer questions as we go. I am buying new plastics too, a full HMF exhaust system, remapping it myself with the Moto mapping, getting Trinity's porting and valve work and new extended a-arms, tie rods and ends, front and rear shocks are going to be coming from PEP too......JIM

 

THE BEST THING TO USE FOR THE HEADER BOLTS IS A 8MM 12 POINT1/4 INCH SOCKET WITH A SWIVEL AND A LONG EXTENTION. ONCE YOU DO IT A FEW TIMES ITS NOT SO BAD. HAVE FUN!

 

Dang Jim, You are really going for a first class mx'er aren't you? You probably need me to take those sorry old Elka's off your hands huh? Let me know. Are the new Tie rods coming from PEP too? I finally dropped the subframe to allow better access to the header nuts too. I looked all over town for that 1/4, 8mm but had to settle on the big 3/8, 5/16. thanks QG81. How do you get the injectors out??

 

Loosen up the little bolts that hold the retainer on then just pull them out.

 

Ryan,
Sorry, I already sold the Elkas....actually within the first hour I advertised them. I have a stock axle with almost no riding time on it, a 2003 Fox rear shock with NO riding time on it and my stock a-arms that I am getting rid of. Also have some Durablue front wheel spacers that I used for 5 races this year.......JIM

 

It best to leave the fuel injection on the motor until you get it out and replace before you put it back in. It's easy to cut the o-rings trying to put it back on if the motor is in the frame. It's also better to leave the clutch line in place and remove it from your bars without losing fluid and having to get all the air out of it.

My first engine took about 3 hrs but I was alone making note and photos. Got it down to about an hour, and the 1/4" 8mm 12pt is the only way to go, but I replace mine with a 6pt nut going back.

Nac 1/4" 12pt 8mm deep and shallow cost me 22 bucks ouch!!!

Hope this helps.

 

Thanks EZride! I believe i'll have to put the header back with a 6pt, cause i still can't find a 1/4 12pt, 8mm. I did leave the injectors in for removal, seemed like it would have been easier without though.
1 HOUR!!!Shazam that must be at superspeed. NUTS, bolts, sockets flying everywhere!!!

I'm still wondering about tie rods/ends. Mine is an early 02 and had slop from the start and had fairly stiff steering action. I see the new ones at my dealer are tight and the action is much easier.

 

Wow ryan you are taking on quite a little task there. Glad to hear your bull still rips. Remember I got your bulls cousin, my serial number is #24 and yours is #22 or something right? Im amazed at how long yours has run with no problems since it is an early engine like my old one. anyways hope she goes back together well.
good luck
graham