Hey all,

I think I'm on the right path with this diag, just want some backup.

Buddy of mine dropped off his 1994 Polaris 400 4x4, Said he was riding it and it shutoff like someone hit the kill switch. No spark.

I started with following the No spark Troubleshooting in the manual.
1st thing disconnected the black wire from the CDI = Still no spark.
Then, unplugged the two connectors coming from the stator, tested with multimeter:
Black/R to Red tested good. (228) (Exciter)
Wht/R to White Tested OPEN (OL) (Pulser)

I took note that the pulser coil did not read correctly, but I kept checking things just because.

I tested the Coil:
Primary Tab to Ground tab was good at .5oHm
Spark wire to Ground tab was OPEN (OL)

So I keep digging. Pull off the side cover to inspect the stator, and find that a bolt from the inner case had come loose and destroyed the pulser coil and lodged itself into the case. (Pictures)

So I have a few questions:
Firstly, Obviously the pulser coil is bad.
Can I source a new one, then cut and splice it with the wires running back up to the CDI or do I need to buy a whole new stator and pulser assembly w/ the wire harness?

Secondly, It seems that the secondary coil is also bad, could this be caused by the pulser coil going bad? Or is this a fluke.

(You can see where the bolt came from in the first picture - at the very bottom)

To add to my question: If I replace the whole stator+pulser+ harness, is it a simple plug and play or does it affect the timing and I would need to re-time the machine ?

I appreciate any input, I just want to do this once and do it the right way!

 

I don't know the model at all. If there are parts drawings on line for it, they will show if the stator comes as a unit, or if the pulse coil is sold separately. However aftermarket suppliers often sell pulse coils on their own. I got one for an Ozark a while ago, and for Hondas too. If the mounting holes for the stator plate are slotted, the timing is adjustable. Most quads are fixed, but I don't work on Polaris, so can't say. Is the outside of the flywheel OK? As the magnetic signal for the pulse depends on the flywheel magnets passing the pulse coil at the correct distance.

 

Thanks for the reply. As far as the flywheel goes, the outside where it passes in front of the pulse coil was ok.
I ended up cross posting this to the Polaris forums and ended up getting more feedback.

For anyone stumbling across this thread with a similar issue here's what I did:

I bought only the pulse coil. Can get it on Ricksmotorsportelectrics or you can take a gamble on an amazon/ebay part.
The pulse coil has no polarity for the wiring so you can wire it either way and be OK.

It seems that the secondary coil going bad was just a fluke, I replaced it. The part number 3083923 is NLA so i used an Amazon/ebay part.

While I was in there I also used some blue loctite on all the hardware too keep anything from rattling loose again.

A little bit of 2 part epoxy on the hole poking thru the case, and we are back in business.

 

Pulse coils are polarity sensitive, not sure of the physics but the signal for timing in the CDI depends on whether the negative or positive part of the AC comes first, so it throws the timing out if you wire them backwards. Anyway, you got it going with only the pulse coil to buy, so a winner.