a question for those with race mods clutching,
at where your belt grap the clutch on the primary to?
i mean at full shift out,you will see a black rubber mark at where
the clutch is opening?
mine is about 5mm on top of primary,it is pretty close but
would like to known what you got as far results?maybe if i switch to a 44-36 it will full shift but i think they aren't any more to do.
thanks.

 

Best I can remember that is about the same for mine too. The helix change will slow down the shift out with that 36 on the top end. If anything I would go for a 44-40, or even if you have the factory helix of a straight 40 then try it too. You might could go up one gram on the weights and get a little more without sacrificing RPMs, but only testing will tell. A lower gear ratio might let it climb all the way also. If you go up 2 teeth on the back it could make a difference, but top speed would probably not change. 6 one way, half a dozen the other[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]

 

The clutches are less efficient at full shift which takes hp away from the drive wheels, so if you want higher mph try changing the gearing instead. Drop a tooth or two on the rear sprocket if possible.

 

i run 12-34 gearing and it will stay that way,i like that ratio,
the 40 helix sound a good idea.the rubber melt mark is pretty close to the top,thanks.

 

thanks for the infos again bubba297,you rule,the 44-40 was a very good
test,i can load it more weights with it now and it is no slouch at top,
by the way,what is the shim behind the snap ring are you using?

 

Whatever came from the factory is what I kept there. I know on snowmobiles you can change that for a different belt, but I havent thought of changing anything for the ATV