I just bought a used 2001 Scrambler 500 4x4. I've spent most of the day yesterday cleaning it up and looking for things that need repaired. I found four things that I need some advice on.

1. It won’t idle unless the idle screw is turned completely in. This puts a lot of play in the throttle cable. Otherwise it starts and runs fine.
2. The neutral and reverse lights don’t work.
3. The regulator/rectifier looks like it has a hole melted in it.
4. The transmission shifter shaft has some play in it. Is that normal and does it need replaced?

Any help with these issues would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

 

You can adjust the idle on the carb itself. There is a cable with a **** on it coming off the carb. You should be able ot access it. It is located just above the clutch cover right in front of the clutch cover exhaust tube. Did you check to see if the lights bulbs are blown? Or is it a wireing or ground issue. If the regulator/rectifier is bad, then it could cause voltage spikes and blow out your lights. I had one go bad on my Harley. It would kill the battery every few days and once it completely killed the battery (to where it would not even charge) it then blew out EVERY light bulb on the bike, AND my brand new tach!![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-mad.gif[/img]. My shifter had a few inches of play too. It doesnt seem to affect anything, so I dont worry about it. There is probably a bushing on the transmission that it worn.

 

I think he means the screw you are talking about BBS when he says idle screw. That means it wants more air to idle. Look to see if the choke might be stuck open or plugged air filter. The nuetral reverse sounds like they may have bypassed the rev limiter or blown a fuse. Could be a bad ground which may also explain the melted rectifier. Look to see if they did any welding on it. If the had a bad ground when the welded on it it could melt the rectifier. A little play in the shifter is ok if it's too sloppy where it pops out of gear it needs repair. Is the slop coming from the tranny or the shifter base?

 

I was just giving it more thought. If you really have to open the idle screw all the way it may be wanting to draw off the main jet due to a plugged pilot jet. Try running it with different amounts of choke while closing the idle screw. If it runs with the choke on and the idle adj screw closed you most likely have a plugged pilot jet. Also bad gounding can make for some rough idle due to lack of or weak spark.

 

Thanks for the replies. I am using the screw at the end of the cable. It is screwed in as far as it will go. Air filter is a k&N and I cleaned it so the air filter should not be a problem. The choke is a little tight maybe it is sticking open. As for the lights I haven't tested the bulbs yet. Can't find any welded areas and I didn't see where anything had been bipassed. The shifter shaft is the only place where I get play I replaced the shifter bushings first so they are tight. There is not much play but I am worried that there might be enough slop that water might get into the tranny. Is there an O-ring on that shaft? One more thing I didn't see any fuses in the wiring harness, where are they located? Temps are falling now and it is supposeed to get down to aroung 5 degrees tonight so I might not get to check this stuff out for awihile. Thanks for advice.

 

First you need to adjust your throttle cable at the ETC on the cable set it where you have about 1/16 in freeplay at the lever.then adjust the carb screw.As for fuses there isnt any.Just a circit breaker. The lights could be as simple as the plug on the tranny not being pluged in tight or the bulbs could be blown.The shifter shaft on the tranny is is ussualy the "bell crank" striped out it is the lever that the shift rod hooks to and they wear out easy to replace about $10.

 

ftwflh,

I think I did the cable adjustments like you said. Not sure what ETC stands for but I assume it is the cable adjuster. With the cable adjusted properly and the idle screw backed out I will not idle at all. I can keep it running with the the thumb throttle but as soon as you let off it dies. I can adjust the cable out so that it will idle but I only have a few threads left on the adjuster. Right now I dont think there is anything wrong with the way the cable is adjusted. I have to assume there is somehting wrong with the carb.
The area thats worn on the tranny is were the shift shaft (according to the parts breakdown) goes into the tranny. It is a little loose. The bellcrank is tight and in good condition.

 

Add choke when it tries to die while the throttle cable is at normal adjustment. If choke keeps it running your pilot jet is most likely blocked. ETC= electronic throttle control. It engages the rev limiter in the event your throttle gets stuck open.

 

I did some more trouble shooting tonight. The bulbs are fine, The switch on top of the tranny is broke. Part of the little toggle switch is busted off. I'll be looking for a new or used part the number is 3233635. It looks like they are all the same from 2000 to 2003. If anyone as an extra one let me know. I haven't got into the carb yet, its too cold. I did play with the choke a little. How much movement should be in the choke? Full in to full out is maybe 3/8 of an inch.

 

Update....
1. I worked with the carb and rerouted the choke cable and sprayed everything with lubricant. I think maybe it had a kink in it and that was part of the problem. Any way the choke works much free-er now and it seems to be working as it is supposed to. I've got the idle screw backed out and it has room to adjust it both ways. For now I think the carb problem is cured.

2. The bulbs are fine, but there is piece in the switch that mounts on top of the tranny that is broke. I've got a switch on order and hope that fixes the light problem.

3. I haven't done anything with the regulator. I need some ideas on how to test it.

4. Play in the shift shaft is going to be tolerable until I find a reason to tear it apart.


Thanks for all the help so far.