On the old style with the selflocking nut what is the best way to get these set ?I dont have an inch lbs torque wrench.How can this be done with a ft lbs wrench?

 

You divide by 12. Like 144 IN/lbs equals 12 FT/lbs . Just be careful, you ft-lb wrench may not be as accurate as a real in-lb wrench.

And could you tell me what the torque spec is on those? People always ask, and I have forgotton. Wasnt it like 12 in lbs or something?

Thanks , Tyler

 

the old style hubs are done in a series of rolling torque settings. the newer ones are 12 lbs at the final reading. earlier ones you had to use the rolling torque of the nut and if was out of spec from being worn needed replaced. you can also multiply the in/lbs by .083 to get ft/lbs. little more accurate with some torques.

 

Yup, .08333 is the multiplicative inverse of 12. Guess the precalc classes payed off, i can use big words [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/img].

 

Thats what I dids and they still wont work right.It is on my buddys 95 Sportsman .He brought it over saturday to get the leak fixed and get it to get out of 4x4.Found the 4x4 problem he had put on a new shifter and had the wires wrong but hats another story.He put on a new seal,race and hub coil.You think he coulds have gotten the race too far on the strut?Looks like I will have to tear it all bake apart again. How do you get the rolling torque?

 

to get the rolling torque you will need a beam or dial type torque wrench. rolling torque is the amount it takes to start the nut to turn.

 

Thats what I thought.All I have is a click wrench.I will have to get one from work tommrow.

 

hey ft, i assume you already have the torque specs? if not let me know and ill pm or email them to you tomorrow. cant remeber them off top of head. oh yeah, on the hub coil it could be too far in or not far enough, either will cause it not to work.

 

I have the specs just needed some refreshing my memory on these.I was sick as a dog satuerday when he was putting it together if I take it apart I bet either the coil is not set right or he bent the plate putting it together.

 

Well like usual the boys steered you right on the torque conversion math!!

On the awd not working I would say that you probably don’t have the hub coil on correctly. But I would check the wiring out first.
I f you do a search you will find some good info on setting up the hub coil.
I personally make sure that no sealant from before is left on the strut to get in the way and then place the coil ALMOST all the way on
Then use a I inch or so piece of square steel stock and gently tap the coil even with the strut collar. (It supposed to be .001)
Before you reassemble the rest turn on the key (don’t start) and put the machine in gear. Take the plate off the Hilliard clutch and place it on the coil.
You should feel a strong magnetic force holding the plate in place turn off the key and it should almost fall off onto the shaft. If you feel the plate stick you have the correct setting.
As far as the rest goes use the use the torque wrench as posted, and fill with fluid.

I like to put the machine on a lift and start it and put it in gear in low then turn on the AWD switch all wheels should turn and you should not be able to stop the front wheels by grabbing them with you hands (I know dangerous).
Now turn off the AWD switch and the tires should keep going, but a gentle rolling forward should result in the hubs unlocking and the wheels stopping. Turn on the AWD switch again and the front wheels should engage again.

This is probably not the best way of doing this but I have replaced and serviced a lot of these and so far so good ……….hope this helps …..If not post in this forum there are a lot of smart people that will help.