I would'nt throw the parts unlimited belt away though, ask you dealer if shims are available for the secondary/driven clutch. These space the shives farther apart by adding shims. (I know they make em for the sleds, bikes not certain) And you may be able to reuse the PU belt. Lay it against your polaris belt, (stack one on top of the other and compare the circumfrance, and then back to back and compare the width) if you can't hardly see any difference it should be close enough to shim the secondary.

Then ask your dealer for his advice, and see if he is a "good" dealer or a parts seller.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
BTW 2 belts with the same # can vary enough to make you consider adding or removing shims to the driven if your one of those fussy kinda people, with too much spare time [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
Ken

 

The new belt is close to the same size as the original old belt. The belt does ride to one side, and is binding against the outter wall of the pulley. After the test I did with the front clutch, I found that the PU belt is doing just that, riding on one side, causing it to bind the belt. That explains the burned and worn areas on the sides of the PU belt. The OEM belt is pulling fine with no catching at all. Go Figure!

 

I hope your machine works with the new belt, but if yours is like mine it will work until you go out and run it hard.

The problem is the ridges on the Hilliard wear out the belt in short time. If you measure the clearance with a feeler gauge and a new belt you will see as time goes on the bushings are grinding away and closing up the sheaves.

Also as to the shimming of the secondary, with the EBS system there are no shims and none are to be added.