I'm learning the hard way the principles and basics of the polaris clutch system. Food for thought, take as much HP as you can get and dump the clutch in a car in say, fourth gear. Guaranteed the vehicle will snuff out or break. That's where I'm at, I put together a nice 250 ported, clutch kit, pipe, 34mm. took out for testing, and it shifted out way early never really getting up in rpms. So I started tinkering with lighter weights. That helped but not right. Remember I'm using already tested theories and product combinations. I decided to check things I ALWAYS TOOK FOR GRANTED. Belt deflection for one. mine2 inches, supposed to be an inch and an eighth. Second I checked belt to sheave clearance, supposed to be .020, mine over.125. The moral of this story is, get the basics right, or you can spend as much money you want and it won't go fast. My hole shots were doggy because I was starting out in the wrong position on the primary and my top speed suffered because the belt was so loose it never shifted out the secondary all the way. not to mention not letting the engine get to the power band correctly. Oh and another thing, the center to center of my clutches 9 13/16 supposed to be 10 inches. That was part of the cause of the big belt deflection. Hope this helps somebody, Doc

 

Doc, you are right on with checking alignment and deflection it getsover looked 99 out of 100 times we stress it alot over here @ hotseat. But on the belt deflection, when your belt is tight and deflection is in spec your belt sits up higher in your secondary which gives you more leverage and allows your machine to start off in a lower gear ( in your case when it was off you were starting in like 2nd or 3rd gear). If you deflection is too loose it will not stop the machine from shifting out all of the way though. Hope everything is running better now. Let me know if you have anymore ?'s

 

Thanks Mr. Werx I did some testing tonight. I still think i need more rpm at engagement. The tach will go on tomorrow, so I can quit guessing.