one other thing .. is there a fuel shutoff on the tank?? I can't seem to find one or reference to one in the manual ..

 

Well thanks everyone for your input. I put fresh engine oil in last night and she fired right up with no problems. Nothing busted, which is great to know.

I'm going to start her up tonight again and let her idle for a spell to warm up and get some fluids running. Then drain her down again, perhaps overnight??

A question on the AGL tranny fluid. Is it supposed to be grey? I drained the tranny off last night but didn't seem to have any water in it. The front diff. did have some, but it only takes a little tiny bit of oil anyway ..

Thanks again for all the help.

 

Just my quick opinion about one thing you mentioned, I don't think putting a one way check on the vent lines would be a good idea, when you heat up an area, like a differential, the fluid and air expands, and the excess pressure goes out the vent, then when it cools off and contracts, it draws air back in. A check valve would let out pressurized air, but after a while, you could possibly be looking at a slight vacuum in the diff. area due to no air getting back in, depending on how good a seal the hose and check valve have, the area under vacuum would try to draw in air, water, etc. through the path of least resistance, like a bolt hole ( air and water can get around unsealed threads of a bolt) or a bad gasket seal. You might end up with a worse problem then you had by just leaving the vent hoses alone. Better yet would be to extend the hoses up to the handlebars, and put a loop in them, then they can vent, and water would have a tough time getting past the loop part, even when submerged.

 

In as much as I expected re: the vent lines. I was thinking on extending those up as well. Perhaps, while the machine is in peices (awful rigs to work on), I will have a look at where those hoses go and see if there's any added benefit to extending/looping them. I know the one for the transmission goes direct into the airbox, so there's nothing for that .. if water gets into the airbox, then it's getting into the tranny.

Thanks for the input.

 

Tranny fluid should be a clear purple. If its grey it has water is it.

 

yep .. figgered that when I poured in the new stuff .. what came out when I drained it was about the color of dry concrete.

 

SS, not going to resort to name calling. If you feel that WD-40 is so blatently falsely advertising their product then you need to take it up with them and not me. You state in your post that WD-40 does indeed pick up moisture ,be it "short lived" and also that it is a 'lubricant". Neither one of these properties are going to cause this product to cause harm or not do the job that I originally posted that it would. Nowhere in my post did I state to leave it in the areas he was trying to remove the water from for any extended period of time. I stated something to the effect of spray it in there, move it around( without starting it ) and drain it out. According to the info in your post ,there is no reason stated as to why this would not work or is not a good idea.I would agree that there are probably some better water displacing products out there than WD-40. They also may not be as readily available or cost effective for use in this persons situation. I admit that I'm not a chemist and do not know what makes this product do what it does, but with over 20 years professional experience as a master service technician in the powersport and power equipment industry, I can safely say that the product does work as I stated in my previous post. No, it is not to be used as an engine crankcase lubricant or gearcase lubricant as it has neither the viscosity or shear strength to be used as such and I never said that it did anywhere in my post. I try very hard not to post things that I haven't either proven from hands on experience or can back up with cold hard facts. If you have good logical reasoning and or factual evidence or experience for your statements then by all means share them. In closing I will say that it would be hard to argue with the fact that it would be better to have a substance in your engine that is capable of bonding to both the oil and the water that is left in there so that it too will drain out than to just have oil and water in there by themselves. Nuff said!

 

Not going to resort to namecalling eh...hmmm...who was it that called me clueless and wondered from under which rock I crawled? Seems to me Fireslayer that you already have. But if you are willing to agree that we have a difference of opinion then so be it. Now since you have stated your background in order to reinforce your position I will outline mine as well. I am neither a chemical engineer nor a master service technician. What I am is a certified Health, Safety & Environmental professional carrying both national & international professional designations, hence the Safety Sean name. I have spent 20 years plying my craft in the heavy civil construction & oil/gas industries across Canada and a year ago I entered the footwear manufacturing industry so that I could spend more time at home with my family. Anyway during my career I have become quite knowledgeable with respect to chemicals, their properties and what they do & why. I already have an MSDS that breaks down the componants of the product as we use it here in the factory...so I know whats in it & I know what the individual componants are made up of and what they do. WD-40 does contain water through the 70% stoddard solvent in its makeup. It is okay as a quick penetrent or quick lubricant but I would never allow it to stand in anything for more than a few minutes.

 

Just aquick note on some of the uses I have found on WD-40 is ,Water Displacer as was stated on distributors ,spark plug wires , makes a quick engine starting fluid (in place of ether) ,quick lube .

the Name of WD-40 was either named for the 40th batch of a attempt to make a Water-Displacement fluid ,hence the WD or you can go by the people that ordered what they wanted ,that was the War Department hence the WD your choice ,but it was the 40th try that produced it . . the product does also work fairly well as a way of keeping mud from sticking to a ATV in muddy terrain .

goodluck with your machine , one thing check all of your electrical connections , fill them with dielectric grease .

 

SS, To clarify a few things; I did call you "clueless" in my first post and still feel justified in doing so with the info posted at that time. I should have clarified that I wasn't going to continue with "name calling" with you in future posts as that does nothing to resolve the debate at hand. You did however agree that I was "correct" about the "rock" part. Being a fulltime paid Firefighter/EMT with Haz-Mat Tech level certifications (hence the "Fireslayer"name)(service technician is now parttime job on my off-shift days from the fire dept.), I too know a good deal about your proffesion also. I know full well about MSDS sheets and the information they contain. I have never stated that WD-40 does or does not contain water in any of my posts. According to the MSDS for the aerosol version, which again to clarify is what I have been talking about,WD-40's specific gravity is less than that of water(.817 vs. 1.00) It is 74% volatile by volume, and is listed as a flammable liquid. Highly unlikely with these characteristics that there is much percertage of water in this product. It does state that there are less than 10 % "non hazardous ingredients" in this product. As far as I can find in the MSDS or any other info about this product, there are no long term or corrosive effects of leaving this product on any of the materials that make up the aforementioned engine or transmission cases or their internal parts. I have yet to say anything about leaving it in anything long-term, and as I stated in my original post on this topic, once it has displaced the moisture that it is capable of displacing it should be drained and discarded properly. What difference does it make in this situation if it does contain a small percentage of water, if it's chemical make-up is such that it can absorb and displace even more water then it will do the intended job as it is advertised and as I full well can attest from numerous experiences that it works. The only real issue I have at this point is why you continue to make statements such as your last sentence ("I would never allow it to stand in anything more than a few minutes") without any explanation as to why you wouldn't allow this. Do you wipe it off or remove it from the items that you use it on as a "quick penetrant or quick lubricant "also? It would make good logical sense that it would be equally harmful to the same types of materials regardless of whether internal or external surfaces. Please give us some factual evidence as to why this would not be a good idea, as I have been unable to come up with any. Please note that I have never said to use this product in place of the correct engine or gearcase lubricants, but rather as an agent to help remove water from said components. My bad on saying "nuff said" before as now I have realized that some clarification was needed.