5th position, is that the bottom groove or the top? If it was the bottom groove, that would have made an overly rich condition. The top groove would have made it overly lean. Normally carburetors are jetted so that the stock setting is in groove #3, the middle groove. You can adjust the clip from that point or add washers to make for an even finer adjustment. My Hawkeye runs great at all throttle settings and speeds, temps, etc. I'm at 1,400 feet. One of these days I'll pop the vaccum diaphram cover and float bown to see exactly what is what, I'm just not that ambitious at the moment.

Good luck guys.

 

HERE'S THE FIX...........
If your dealer won't replace the jets and wants to drill holes, keep in mind the jets are under 10 bucks and the labor should only be about 30 bucks or so I was told. I'd rather spend the cash than have 6 holes in my airbox.

Carb Pre 3/7/06--------------------------- Carb Post 3/7/06 (The right one)
Main jet 147.5----------------------------------- Main jet 140
Pilot jet 42.5--------------------------------------Pilot jet 45
Jet needle 4HB42-5-------------------------------Jet needle 4HC57-3
Neddle jet 04-m-----------------------------------Needle jet 05-m

Post 3/7/06 Altitude--------------------Below 40 degrees F ---------------Above 40 degrees F
0-6000 feet ------------------------------------145-----------------------------------140
6000-1200 feet------------------------------- 140------------------------------------135 or 6 1/2 inch holes in top of airbox....(stupid)

According to Polaris the dealer can either replace the jets or (stupid) drill 6 1/2 inch holes in the top of the airbox and you can self adjust by removing the rubber plugs in those holes, again (stupid)

 

Thunder Products has a good alternative to drilling holes in the air box. It's called a TPI Valve and is an adjustable sliding gate opening to the air box. It requires removing the snorkel and cutting a 2" square hole in the air box lid. It is also necessary to cut the pre-filter box off the bottom of the TPI valve because it interfers with the pre-filter and filter of the Hawkeye. The TPI Valve is only $20. Go to www.thunderproducts.com. The TPI Valve used with their Dail A Jet allows riding at big elevation changes without having to rejet the carburator. Both the Dail A Jet and TPI Valve are externally adjustable. Both products are well explained on their web site and Lonn Peterson will answer any questions you may have.

 

Do not just drill holes, use a TPI valve! I can open and close the valve and it has a washable filter element in it. You can hear the power difference at idle. I can send pictures of this installed. Just PM me.

 

check and see if the shift sensor is broken that happend to ours

 

see if pushing the over ride button makes it run better if it dose the motor thinks its in reverse and retards the timing after so menny rpm so that it wont go to fast backwards

 

Girl friend has a hawkeye... had the jetting changed... had the spark plug changed... had the airfilter changed.... still runs like crappp. The kids 80 Susi and 90 Preds work harder than this machine. I think that the carb / engine match is wrong. So, we are selling it... any one want one... LOL

 

i have a 07 that i bought in hope all the problem would be gone a friend has a 06 that runs awesome but my 07 is slow feels like when i clutch is going bad in a car and the other day there was alot of oil in my air box and the thing has never been tipped or rolled cuz my wife drives it. anyone know why? also my 07 has the 6 holes in the air box pluged up i thought they would have fixed the problem in 07 but no they just drilled the holes for you that is so@@@@@@

 

This is for ArmyHawkeye in Arizona. You have a Dial-A-Jet and I have seen pictures of your installation form Thunder Products. I put a Dial-A-Jet on my 06 Hawkeye so I wouldn't have to rejet when going between 2,500' and 10,000' elevation. I have run into a problem and have removed the Dial-A-Jet to solve it. All of this discussion is riding at the 2,500' elevation. I am getting fuel vaporizing and bubbles going up the Dial-A-Jet plastic tube and into the carb intake. This occures after 1.1/2 to 2 hours of riding. With the engine off you can see the bubbles traveling up the tube. The engine will flood out and die at low speeds. I have to let it cool to restart it. Then it runs fine for awhile. It must be heat related. I have installed the reflective tube cover that comes with the Dial-A-Jet and fabricated an isulated reflective shield to go between the engine and carburetor. I took off the side panels to get more air flow. None of this helped. With the Dial-A-Jet removed, the engine carburates fine and runs good no matter how long I run it. I talked to Lonn Peterson at Thunder Products and he says I have a first. Lucy me!

I have a Dynojet jetting kit but I had the same problem before I put it on. I've done spark plug readings with the Dial-A-Jet removed at idle, mid, at high rpm under load. Nice light brown at all three, indicating a good fuel mix.

I have the auxillery oil cooler on order but this is just because I don't like the high temperatures that air cooled four stroke engines run at.

I am wondering if you have run into this same problem?

Alan Mefford
alanhawaii@yahoo.com

 

Alan,

The DAJ is meant to compensate for a lean mixture, not create one. It adds fuel. Their instructions call for creating a lean condition by lowering the main jet by a few sizes, then when you install the DAJ with the adjuster at the leanest position, all the adjustments you make from that point will be to the rich side.

This is what I think you should do with your setup.

1. Jet your carb (pilot and main) for the 10,000' elevation (maybe even go an additional size smaller on the main).
2. Install the DAJ with the adjuster at the leanest position.
3. Use the DAJ to richen the mixture as lower elevation and lower air temps dictate.

Now to make sense of my thoughts. If you jet the carb for the worst possible lean condition (10,000'), you'll only have to worry about using the DAJ to richen it. If your carb is jetted for 10,000' or leaner and the DAJ adjuster is set at its leanest setting, you'll be good to go at that elevation. If you're riding on a cool morning at the 2,500' elevation, use the DAJ adjuster to richen the mixture. My thoughts are that as you ride at the highest elevation, the DAJ will be at the leanest setting delivering little or no additional fuel, and as you ride at the lowest elevation, you'll have adjusted the DAJ to one of the richer settings. I got the following paragraph from the DAJ website:

Dial-A-Jet is an add fuel only device. You cannot add fuel to an engine that is running rich or has an adequate fuel supply and hope to gain horsepower. You must create a lean condition so that Dial-A-Jet has a window of opportunity to function. Dial-A-Jet will automatically fill in the lean areas of the fuel curve giving you optimum performance. The fine emulsified fuel charge can't displace the heavier poorly atomized fuel from the other circuits so it takes the path of least resistance and fills in the lean mix areas eliminating fuel spiking and giving you a consistent fuel flow pattern producing stable temperatures and horsepower. The only way Dial-A-Jet can fail to perform is if you do not get the carburetor within range of the Dial-A-Jet. This usually means that the main jet is too large. You must create a slightly lean condition so the Dial-A-Jet has a working range. This is typically about three or four jet sizes below a properly jetted machine. A single Dial-A-Jet will deliver 10% to 15% of your overall fuel curve in an emulsified state. There are five automatic fuel ranges you can select from on each Dial-A-Jet. Simply rotate the dial to raise or lower your fuel curve.

I hope this helps in your tuning endeavors.