I had the exact same problem with my 2004.5 600. It just didn't want to idle in cold temps. I had a Dynojet kit installed this summer and so far this winter it starts right up. It made a whole world of difference. If I were you I'd invest in a jet kit, and they aren't that expensive. I got mine from motosport.com.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: sheepdogMSP8117

Also, an easy way to richen the mixture without rejetting is to wrap the air filter in a shop rag or two. Choking off some air while leaving the fuel the same will give you a richer mixture.</end quote></div>

That's a clever idea, but it would have the same effect as leaving the choke pulled out - and that doesn't resolve the problem. As long as the engine is still "cool", it doesn't want to idle. Perhaps the combination of less air AND a higher idle will do it....

 

if you ask me it sounds like you can just start by adjusting the air/fuel mixture screw. You will have to drill the plug out and then adjust it. If you read the directions on the dyno jet web site it will tell you how. its not that hard except you need to remove the carb to do so. I would turn the screw in and count the turns. the turn it back out and then add a half turn or 3/4. then install the carb and then adjust it while the bike is running to fine tune it.

clint

 

waatv...most carbs use a fuel enricher circuit as the choke. as in it allows more fuel the enter the cylinder. they dont use the butter fly type choke

 

I agree playing with that screw is one approach, but adjusting it while the carb is on the machine is nearly impossible because of its location and orientation when the carb is installed. Apparently there's a special 90 degree micro screwdriver you can get that makes it almost possible, but the tech at the local Polaris shop said it's still not easy.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: WAATV

I agree playing with that screw is one approach, but adjusting it while the carb is on the machine is nearly impossible because of its location and orientation when the carb is installed. Apparently there's a special 90 degree micro screwdriver you can get that makes it almost possible, but the tech at the local Polaris shop said it's still not easy.</end quote></div>

That's why I just paid the extra $50 bucks and had the professionals install it. My weed-eater has never worked right since I messed that carb [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

While it's there, have the clutching done. Does wonders for low-end torque.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: eggenz7

waatv...most carbs use a fuel enricher circuit as the choke. as in it allows more fuel the enter the cylinder. they dont use the butter fly type choke</end quote></div>

I'll have to check what's on the 700 engine. It's a Mikuni carb but I don't know its configuration. I have the service manual but it's at our lake place (along with the ATV's).

The Mikuni carbs on my 787 Rotax engines (jetskis) definitely have butterfly valves for the choke function, which is what I was thinking about when I typed that.

 

Confirmed that the choke is a fuel-enrichment type, as opposed to the butterfly style I'm used to on my jetskis. Thanks for that tip.

So... anyone have any writeups on how to remove the carb on an SP700? The dealer says "go in from the top" but a quick glance there sure doesn't look promising. The service manual does say the carb can be removed without removing the engine, so I know it's possible, but any writeups would be really appreciated.

 

cant you take it off by removing the air box and pulling it out that way? i dont know w/out looking but seems like it would be the easiest.