RULE #1 BUY THE MANUAL it is just as important as the machine IMO. That being said if all your springs and bearings are good the following info is where I'd be checking, from what little I know of Polaris ATV's - I have a lot of experience with snowmobile clutches - yes there are shims behind secondary clutch, there is also a center to center specific specification - on a Arctic Cat Snowmobile its 12.2" center to center of clutch bolts so I'm sure Polaris ATV has some center to center measurement as their sleds do. Then there is also a belt deflection specification and also a sheave offset alignment. A little bit of tinkering in the above mentioned spots and you should be all set. Good luck

 

the big differnce maine, is that the one way bushing in the primary, which is the ebs, has these fiber washers that do wear out to make them creep. i wish the clutches were as easy as the polaris sleds were. it would be so much easier lol.

 

THOSE BUSHINGS GET WORN OUT FROM LETTING THE MACHINE SET AND IDLE WHILE IN GEAR..

YOU HAVE THE PRIMARY ROTATING, BUT THE EBS IS NOT CAUSING THE BUSHING TO BURN INTO THE INNER SHEAVE ON CLUTCH,. I HAVE SEEN THIS DESTROY CLUTCHES. AFTER THE BUSHING IS GONE THE EBS WILL START TO BURN INTO THE ALUMINUM OF THE INNER SHEAVE.

 

Where you already got your ATV fixed Ujoint I want to hijack your thread and ask a couple of questions, I'm am very familiar to AC & POL. sled clutches and understand how they work BUT this EBS is all new to me so can one of you give me the basic principle on EBS system please. My atv is a 99 500 Magnum 4x4 w/EBS and I've done a forum search but didn't really find a layman's explanation of it and I'd also like to know is it a normal wear item like clutch weight bushings and how do you check the EBS bushing for wear- While I'm at it how about the clutch weights on the drive clutch of these atvs is the bushing in the weights a high wear item? Thanks for any time and help spent to explain this to me.

 

The EBS clutch works on the same principal as the clutches you are used to, the only exception is, the belt has constant tension to the Drive clutch when in the idle (or released) position. This is due to the belt riding on the EBS bearing, which is a 1 way bearing (meaning it only rotates freely in 1 direction, rotation in the opposite direction causes it to "lock up").

If the clutch sheaves release the belt, AND the rear wheels are still "pushing" the quad faster than the RPM's of the engine, the EBS bearing "locks up" and causes the engine backpressure to assist in the speed decrease. Notice the use of backpressure, as this will not function properly with a 2 stroke engine, due to lesser backpressure of the 2 stroke engine.

Most ATV's with a centrifugal type clutch system (automatic clutch - no manual activation of the clutch, ie no clutch lever) incorporates a 1 way clutch bearing to assist in the speed decrease (otherwise on deceleration the quad would "freewheel" - just like the non-EBS Polaris quads)

Wear on the clutch parts is obviously due to operating conditions and circumstance - the most common wear we see on the clutches is the buttons.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: MaineWheeler

Where you already got your ATV fixed Ujoint I want to hijack your thread and ask a couple of questions, I'm am very familiar to AC & POL. sled clutches and understand how they work BUT this EBS is all new to me so can one of you give me the basic principle on EBS system please. My atv is a 99 500 Magnum 4x4 w/EBS and I've done a forum search but didn't really find a layman's explanation of it and I'd also like to know is it a normal wear item like clutch weight bushings and how do you check the EBS bushing for wear- While I'm at it how about the clutch weights on the drive clutch of these atvs is the bushing in the weights a high wear item? Thanks for any time and help spent to explain this to me.</end quote></div>

the clutch weights ive seen dont have the fiber bushing like the sled weights but they still wear into the weight and the pin after awhile.