clutch
#1
OK so i machined a washer and took some meat off the cup inside the primary to take up the gaps between the sheaves and ebs pulley. Anyways the belt still drives into the gap and makes the bike drive at idle and makes it impossible to shift. Anyways i solved the problem with a bigger spacer leaving the ebs pulley to only have .002-.003" of play. Does anyone see an issue with the almost zero play? I guess my sheaves are worn a bit allowing the belt to come over far enough to fall into that gap between the sheave and ebs pulley. This only occurs with a new belt my old used one works fine. Just debating on spending on a new primary or run it with little gap. There would be no debate but sometimes i ride by myself and dont want to get stranded from something i new about.
Thanks
Thanks
#2
Should be about .020 clearance,but IF works and doesnt creep go for it, may cause little extra wear in cup area,but I know creeping PAIN in the butt! Did you try shimming out back clutch first to see if helps or not? Or loosen front motor mount and pull back to lessen tension on belt? Still if works and doesnt eat belts,cheaper than 400 buck primary! Good luck
#3
Ya i put up to 6 shims in the secondary and no go. The primary just keeps positively driving the belt. It works so i guess i'm gonna try and run with it. Another quick question on rebuilding primaries. Sleds or quads when you shim or mess with spacers the spider never quite torques down in the same spot. Does this effect the balance? or is the back sheave balanced independently? Also whats up with the plastic jam nut?? tighten by hand?
#4
Yes they never line up the same, but as long as aligned properly should not cause much vibration. Best to loctite (medium strength ok) plastic jam nut and dont overtighten or will split. Have had jam nuts back off ,will limit clutch travel and speed.
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cdstang
Polaris Ask an Expert! In fond memory of Old Polaris Tech.
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Aug 31, 2015 07:52 AM
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