"not to mention... a properly tuned carb can run just about as clean as an efi." Ha ha ha ha ha..........................You kidding right?

A carb can't even come close to EFI when it comes to emissions. How many cars have you seen smogged?

Sure I can set a carb up to give real close emissions to an EFI in one area and one parameter. The second I go up 500 feet or the temp drops 15 degrees the carb is out to lunch again emission wise. EFI can adjust 1000 times or more a second. How many times does a carb adjust a second? None. And you say a carb is close to EFI emission wise? I'm pretty fast at jet changes but you must be really good if you can change them out a 1000 times or more a second!!!

Look at a smog sheet from a 1970 SBC. Then look at a smog sheet from a LS6. Look at the government allowances in 1970 and look what it takes to pass smog now. The numbers aren't even in the same universe let alone close.

Slap a carb on a LS6 and see how close you get to the EFI engine emission wise in varying conditions. This I have to see.

 

[QUOTE=beergut;3070508]don't know why you'r being like that, specta

Just pissed thinking about all the gas I have wasted over the years.

 

nope- I'm not kidding, and any knowledgeable educated technician knows this.

yes, like I mentioned before in one of my previous posts in this thread- efi is continuously adjusting compared to the carb, therefor over a period of time and terrain differences, the efi is much more efficient- and a carb simply can not take into account all the variables like air density and moisture like an efi can. however, a properly tuned carb can match that of an efi (emission wise) given the same environmental conditions. Even if it's not practical- but, my point was that a carb can be tuned to match efi emissions- which it can.

I learned that first year of auto mechanics in trade school.

 

efi all the way

 

Ya show me a 08 EFI 500 that has over 22,000km of problem free riding . One that has never had a check engine light on, never a efi problem , never a fuel pump problem , never a sensor problem , a TSB problem , ADC problem . Do you really think I could of rode a 500 EFI machine for 22,000km in 4 years without having one problem ?


I have a 06 ranger 500 efi got up this morning up hunting and nothing tested battery it's good are there any fuse links on the 06 ? i have checked connections on ingition and nothing can jump the soleniod and it will turn over but will not start thanks in advance for your help

All I have an 08-700 X2 and 2 of the wires have brokin at the solder joint inside of the plug for the T-BAP. I was able to remove the ruber O ring and slide it over the wire and push it back in and reseat the O ring to get a conection. I need to make it Perm. Question? have any of you had this yourself and what was the fix...replacement conector or more invalved? The unit is under worinty but I like to have a clue when I take it in. The folks are super at the dealership I use and they will order in advance if I know what is needed and they will fix it as i stand by, as I live 65 miles away and hate to drop it off and then go back to P/U. Any help ....I thank you in advance!!!

I had the same problem on my '05 700, it ended up being thr ECM which was recalled twice already and it was the defective ECM's on 2 '05 500 also. Flashes hot and or fan stay's on.

We took our brand new Sportsman 400 for my wife and my new 500 EFI out for the first time today. We had a great time and the 400 ran great all day. My 500 was fine at first and then ran good except it would not idle. Very frustrating especially the downhills and hard on the starter too. I wish Polaris would have put the starter button over by the left hand, so you could hold the brake and hit the starter with the same hand.

So when I got home, I read the book and like I suspected with EFI, it says if the idle is unsatisfacory, see your Polaris dealer.

However I tightened up the slack in the throttle cable to where it would idle now. I think. It was touchy and had to do it a few times because once I thought I had it, and the next time I started it , it raced too high, or it was too low again but it seems OK now.

But, did I do it wrong? This is my first ATV with fuel injection and being brand new, I don't want it jury rigged. Is this the way the dealer would set the idle?

One other thing that happened once and scared me because the little 400 would have had a hard time (to say the least) pulling me out of there.
Went to start the 500 after repeatedly stalling , pulled the brake and it did nothing. Put it in neutral, it still did nothing but the key was coming on cause the IP came on, just no starter engagement.


After trying it several times, turning he key on and off, it just started cranking, like nothing was wrong. Only did that, just that one time. Any body have any ideas or had this happen before?

Other than these things I really liked it alot better than I liked my '08 Grizzly 450. Altho I never had any problem with the Yammie except the rear seal.

I sure was wishing I had 3 hands today tho.
One to hold the brake; one to turn the key; and one more to give it a little gas , so it would start.

Hey guys,

Im havng running issues with my 500 efi. the motor tends to just cut off and shut down when it wants. you can start it right back up and 30 seconds later it cuts off again.

I have done some reading and its appearant that My t-bap harness may have went south on me.

can some one tell me where this little harness/sensor is located. i want to check for and frayed or broken harnesses. Ive heard there is a replacement harness for this. How involved is it to install? I havent checked for any codes yet. will do so when I get home. It positvely cant be corroded for the bike has never seen any water or mud. Its in immacultent condition.

Does anyone know the price of one of these? and also a part #.

Thanks in advance for your help.,

hey guys,

after coming out of the woods today my 500 sportsman cut off for no reason. as it sputtered off the check engine light come on. she would start right back up and cut off 30 seconds later.

it checked the diagnostics and the battery read 11.7. is this too low?

what else could be wrong? is there any plugs that may have come loose. if so what do i need to check? If i can recall some wires on a sensor can fray causing this problem

this quad is in mint condition so i cant imagine what would be wrong with it

-------------------------
2007 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI New Mossy Oak Camo Edition.


hey guys,

im trying to get the screen to throw a code at me for my bike just cuts off when it wants.

i called my dealer and he knew exactly what my problem was (tbap harness) he said for 125$ it can be fixed. i guess ill have it done by them..


The dealer first thought it was the t-bap harness, then the mechanic told me to try and wiggle the wires on the throttle position harness first, and that's what it was. The orange wire (if I remember correctly) goes from the tps to the t-bap. I was getting a code 45 (Barometric Pressure/Manifold Air Pressure Sensor Low). Sure enough it was the harness on the throttle body and not the harness on the air box. When I messed with the wires, the check engine light would go on and off. I was told the problem was Polaris made the harness too short and the wires would vibrate loose or break. The harness for the t-bap(air box) was about $28, and the tps harness(throttle body) was around $36. It's an easy fix no matter what harness your need to replace. The diagnostic mode while in park and turning the key 3 times is the EFI diagnostic mode, to get flash codes when the check engine light is on. The neutral / reverse override diagnostic mode just gives you general info; battery voltage level, AWD Diagnostic Screen, Gear Circuit Diagnostic Screen, & Programmable service interval. Have a good one!

Does anyone have access to the diagnostic tree to diagnose codes, I have a 04 700 EFI Sportsman. The service manual I have doesn't have the info, says see the dealer. I have the codes and descriptions, just how to figure out what is wrong 41 Air Temp Sensor

 

I'll just jump in and say I like EFI. Have had both and had more troubles within less miles with the carbed ATP 500 we had. I'm not as inclined to do my own fixing on the fuel system as I have a tendency to break things and having it end up more costly than if I had brought it in to get fixed in the first place. I was up in Maine a couple months ago and about 35 miles or so from the truck. Got gas at a local station and within a couple miles the quad started coughing and spitting, backfiring, and stalling. The EFI did its best to compensate and I was able to limp it back to the truck. Got some fuel treatment and it cleared up pretty quickly. If I had a carb I don't know that I would have been able to drive it back to the truck. Just my own random thoughts. I like EFI.

 

I might as well jump in... LOL
EFI's adjust to climate and elevation changes. Thus the perfect jetting for hot/cold/up/down.
In racing, it helps pass the db limit. They set a condition to make the motor blubber at the tested rpm's. <EG>
I think carbs on a stock motor are not fussy either.
I run a Lectron on my R and enjoy trouble free operation.

 

c'mon, really spdecat?

you list a dozen or so t-bap issues and you think that supports your debate? you want me to go pull every post on carb failures- cause I guarantee there will be more, a lot more, caused by a lot more parts failing. I guarantee there were more carb failures that left riders stranded in the last 5 years than efi. I'd bet the house on it.

and yes- I don't see an efi having any issue reaching the 13, 700 mile mark. why would it?
Truth is, efi has less moving parts- fuel pump, injector, TPS sensor & ecm module. They are pretty simple and cheap to fix if you know what the problem is. You can have an answer to which part failed in less then a few minutes once you're in a shop- can have your atv back on the trails the next day... good luck getting your atv back within a week if you have carb issues!

You want to time me on how long it takes me to swap out a TPS or injector compared to removing a carb to clean it?

You die hard carb guys act as though the entire efi system needs to be replaced for every failure and that's just not the case.

The whole debate that a carb is more reliable than an efi system is really just silly- carbs require a lot more maintenance and care than an efi.

At this point- the whole debate is getting tiresome. Eventually, you'll be sitting on an efi atv- and you'll see the difference in reliability and how little maintenance efi requires over carbs.

 

I like your way of thinking.

EFI: like it or not here it is.

 

When I had a carbed ATV I had to crank up the rpms in the winter just to keep it running. And I had to leave the choke on for several minutes. With EFI I just turn the key and it's running perfectly. I like that a lot better.