How much clearance do you have at full droop(wheels off the ground)? You don't need much..1/4" is plenty IMO..
But I think you should be able to bend it some more if needed and still clear the shield. Here's how...after bending move it towards the left side rotate it past the sheild and then move it back to the right and centered..I think it will move in the mount bushings..at least mine did..
It might not move real easy,I'd first try moving it by hand,you know turn it a little back and forth in the mounts while pushinbg to the side. Mine moved during my "stress relief" blows, but you shouldn't have to waylay it though,so if by hand doesn't work try covering the end with a rag and use a hammer and block of wood to tap knock a little to the left side and see if it moves and gains you some clearance..mine definitely moved side to side,not on purpose, and I had to re-center it. Might be why I didn't run into the issue of it hitting the heatshield

 

The look of the stock wheels with the XTR's is growing on me..wasn't real crazy about it at first but not so bad now..

Here is a few pics of it cleaned up just for Dave,lol..

 

Looking good HO! What are you using on the vinyl and rubber? Kind of a nice "satin" look!

 

Believe it or not I used All In One on basically the entire bike this time,all the black plastic too....
The tires sides is just some store bought tire shine,Meguires...tire shine might seem silly on an atv,but the right stuff makes clean up alot easier..
The tread is just clean,Eagle One tire and wheel cleaner..lol...
The seat is Optimum Protectant..that is about all I ever use on the seat...

 

Well, it sure looks good!

You are right about the wheels... when you keep them that "spiffy", they look just fine.

 

HO, is that a fender bag by the shifter ****?

 

No,just the shape of the plastic and shadowing..

 

I rode 30 miles yesterday on a tight 50" cycle trail through the forrest,the trail is open to ATV's but is mainly ridden by and caters to dirtbikes. I saw some ATVs on the powerlines,but NONE on the trails with us. It was challenging,like threading a needle on the XP. Of the 30 miles about 25 was through whoops and there is an abundance of sharp high angle(for a utility ATV) banked sandy turns...mind you with trees right along the trail the whole way...and in alot places it is no kidding like 51",my track is like 50 1/2 lol...
The XP got a good workout trying to keep up with the bikes! If my tires didn't rub the swaybar yesterday,and they didn't,they are not going to!
It was a blast and the XP performed awesomely. The suspension is definitely broken in well now,like I said about 25 of the 30 miles was through whoops.
When the dirt bike riders were physically tired I was fine,although it was mentally challenging to avoid trees. I managed to do the whole 30 miles and only scrub one tree on each side,both times on the tight sandy high angle banked turns where the rear would track lower in the turn than the front...although there was about a couple hundred times where I tensed up waiting for the impact,lol..

 

What do you guys think about removing the sway bar and cutting out a piece in the center of the bar and rewelding it or sleaving it so it would be shorter. I am not sure how much strain the sway bar is put under during harsh riding. I would hate to do this and ruin it and have to buy another one ( sure they are very cheap to buy!!!)

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: loaderboy

What do you guys think about removing the sway bar and cutting out a piece in the center of the bar and rewelding it or sleaving it so it would be shorter. I am not sure how much strain the sway bar is put under during harsh riding. I would hate to do this and ruin it and have to buy another one ( sure they are very cheap to buy!!!)</end quote></div>

I don't think that would work because I think the bar has saddles where the mount busings ride. But if it could be shortened... The bar is under some decent stress during harsh riding,but probably more importantly is how often it must flex. I'm not a certified welder but I'd venture to say that it could be welded and not crack but it would take some one who really knows what they are doing and would probably require re-heat treating the bar or it will likely be brittle around the weld. So it likely wouldn't be a simple weld job.
Besides bending it is easier IMO
If you try it keep us posted. A new bar is around $60.