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03 700 Sportsman water pump seal removal

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  #11  
Old 09-30-2009 | 08:26 AM
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The parts I mentioned are already ordered. I did not buy the $110 seal puller, the three jawed puller is something I already have. I also have a harmonic balancer puller. Over the years, I've acquired tools, as I mentioned I generally buy a tool when I need it, and after thirty years have most of the non-specialty items. But I don't like to buy a one-off tool like the seal puller from Polaris (or Victor).

The die is cast, if the parts come in time I'll know more this weekend.
 
  #12  
Old 11-09-2009 | 02:13 PM
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This story isn't over yet, I hate it when threads are left hanging. Between work, home life and the flu, it's been a few weeks since I could get up to the cabin. Here's what transpired since last posting.

I pulled the magneto cover (actually, covers, since there's an outer shell for some reason) exposing the flywheel. The flywheel nut came right off, and I confidently installed my three jawed puller, and cranked 'er down until I was afraid I was going to bend the outer edge of the flywheel - she was good and tight. Then I commenced to hammering, just no luck. Heat (as much as I dared), penetrating oil, nothing worked.

I then got a harmonic balancer puller (they look like a bird's foot) and tried the same thing, same results. I was really afraid of how much tension I was putting on. No luck.

So, I gave up for a while and went home, leaving the puller on in case miracle of miracles a couple weeks of sustained tension would pop it loose. Not that I really thought so, but hey, why not?

I bought a puller from Dennis Kirk (it was about $50, rather than the $110 Polaris puller), and Saturday went up there, noting that the stubborn thing was still holding tight. I took off the harmonic balancer puller and put the new puller on, tightened her down (much more confident now, the thing is beefy), got the three pound hammer, BANG-PING! She was loose! Oh, it's a tapered fit, that explains it.

Got the stator off, the pickup coil and, using a bar poked through from the other side of the ATV, loosened the cover with a rubber mallet, knocking on the end of the pry bar - the starter is press fit into the cover (with an o-ring), so I had to tap it off, but it was no big deal.

I pressed out the old seals, and just then my brother showed up to borrow my tractor, so I had to go see what the heck he was up to, so I didn't get back to it until Sunday. I spent over an hour cleaning the gasket surfaces, the old stuff was like concrete. But I got it cleaned up, pressed in a couple new seals, put some blue goo on there and the new gasket, and tapped her back into place (the starter, remember?).

I mounted the stator, pickup coil and wire holder, put the bendix and flywheel back on, tightened the flywheel nut on to 90ft/lbs put the magneto cover(s) back on and torqued down all the bolts to 10 ft/lbs - seems kinda light, but that's what the book says. Oh yeah, a little Loctite on everything as I went.

OK, I'm getting excited now. I just have to put the water pump mechanical seal on, the impeller and the water pump cover, and the plastics and such.

Dang! The mechanical seal fits down into a well, and none of my sockets are what I deem to be a good fit. Not wanting to spoil things now, I figure I'll leave it to another day.

So I have this new seal (with a plastic cover on it) ready to go. The Polaris tool is $35. Should I spring for that? And do I leave the plastic cover on the seal while trying to seat it? And is the ceramic washer in there, under that plastic cover?
 
  #13  
Old 11-09-2009 | 03:24 PM
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Not necessary to buy the tool,just find a socket that will fit the seal. As you seat the water pump seal the plastic will pop off. The ceramic washer is underneath and the CERAMIC side goes toward the motor side and the rubber side faces the impeller. Good luck OPT
 
  #14  
Old 09-29-2010 | 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by helmethair78
NO NO NO!!!!!! Don't buy all of that!!!!!
I replaced my seals last spring. All you need to buy is the water pump seal, but while your in there you might as well do the oil seal.

All you need are two self tappping screws. Screw them into your water pump seal and grab them with pliers and pull the seal out. Do the same for the oil seal. There is no need to drive them out from the back or to buy a $110 pulller.

I used a 1" pvc double female connector to drive the seals in. Be very careful with the water pump seal.
Took yer advice pullin' the seals out. U da MAN !
Hope all works out as well when the new ones go back in.
Gotta Love internet in the PloleBarn!!
 
  #15  
Old 09-29-2010 | 08:44 PM
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Yes you can get the seals out like mentioned,BUT the oil seal mounts flush at the back of the case and is supposed to be installed from the rear! If the seal is damaged,then oil can drip out the weep hole the same as coolant can! I'm all for easier ways to do things,but sometimes the manual is right. There is too much at stake if you damage the water pump shaft. JUST my 2 cents on this one! OPT
 
  #16  
Old 09-30-2010 | 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Effer
Took yer advice pullin' the seals out. U da MAN !
Hope all works out as well when the new ones go back in.
Gotta Love internet in the PloleBarn!!
I'm happy that it worked out for you!!!
 
  #17  
Old 10-03-2010 | 01:19 AM
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Hello...I have a 1997 Polaris 400 Xpress and I am trying to find out how to adjust the throttle cable and choke on the carburetor. I can't seem to find Any information on these adjustments and need some help please. My ATV cranks but does not want to run. It has backfired a couple of times and I want to really get this running for my niece and I. Please Help me!!!Becky
 
  #18  
Old 10-03-2010 | 11:45 AM
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pm should show you what you need. If you need more help just pm me. OPT
 
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