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Carb Issues

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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 01:17 PM
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Default Carb Issues

90' Polaris Trailboss 350L, after rebuilding carb with kit, ATV runs and after shutting off ATV, sits for a minute or two and then fuel leak from the overflow of the bottom of carb. Floats appear to be working correctly. Any help appreciated.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 01:27 PM
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Try adjusting float arm,usually parallel with carb body body,but small tang can be bent downwards,allowing float arm to be up a little. Should stop over flow. Wouldn't hurt to turn fuel valve off between rides. OPT
 
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 01:37 PM
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What was the reason for rebuilding the carb?

Usually two things happen, one is you disturbed things enough so you have some dirt coming out of your fuel lines entering into the float valve and are making it leak, or maybe your float has given up the ghost and has sprong a leak. They sometimes will do that, check it by shaking it by you ear to see if it has filled with fuel. (Do you have a brass float or a composition one?) this only works for a brass one. A composition one needs to be weighed

I'm assuming all things were replaced correctly?? Like the gasket under the seat.

Good luck, let us know what happens.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 03:40 PM
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Default Carb issues

Carb kit installed due to dirty and while I had it apart best to rebuild for minimul $$$. Double floats and they are composition. In-line filter on outside of tank to catch debris, appears to be working because there are floaties in it from the tank. ATV Fires right up after carb kit and new battery installed , air/gas screw doesn't change idle any when screwed in or out, still runs the same. Pressing thumb throttle and has hesitation in reving. Also smokes, is this just normal for 2stroke?

I will check the carb again tonight. When I tap on the side it stops leaking so something is def sticking.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 04:41 PM
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make sure all your jets are clean,clean. good fuel flow from tank could check for cracked intake boot
 
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Old Jan 12, 2010 | 07:40 PM
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Carb leaking gas issues solved, float arm was upside down and made just a hint of difference. The air/gas mixture screw however still does nothing when all the way in or all the wa out? Also the screw that is supposed to stop the piston does nothing as well? Any ideas. It also smokes ALOT when revving. THanks for the help.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 04:38 AM
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in reference to the idle stop screw ,do you mean it will not idle down??
you do have it back together correct?? throttle cable binding up anywhere ?? throttle cable has enough freeplay?? i believe the idle speed is 700-800 rpm.
you never did say if you were running it on premix 50 to 1 or if you were still using the factory injection system. you may want to see if it is set correctly.
you could look at the counterbalancer as well ,drain and refill with 10w-30, only holds 4.5 ounces. i believe the drainplug is up front on the bottom.
excessive smoking usually means it might be time for a topend rebuild,rings or rings and piston, do all you can to get it running good for now ,check for a vacuum leaks and you may want to run a compression test also
 
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Old Jan 15, 2010 | 01:49 PM
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Yes, the idle screw makes the idling do nothing, not up or down, it stays the same, it just idles. Yes it is correct, only one way to put this one back together. Throttle cable is free and seems to work fine.

I am using the fact inj system.

Where can I find the counterbaancer at? Where would it normally get it's ok from?

I am doing a complete top end, pistno, rings,c lips, etc, to inclue boring due to some scaring in the piston intake.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 02:18 PM
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the counterbalancer drain plug is up front on the bottom. I believe it takes a 9/16" to get it off. only holds 4 to 4.5 ounces. polaris specifies 10w-30 but you use whatever you decide. You want the 10w- or 5w- or 0w- in the cold time for easy spinning and good lubrication.
The fill hole-dipstick is on the rear of the engine,unscrews with a large screwdriver. You'll need a funnel
 
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