I'm looking to see what I need to do to get my tb400 to grab faster when I hit the throttle. I do alot of woods and trail riding and it would be nice to just burp the gas to pop the front end over washouts, ruts, or small logs. It will pop it over but it takes me having to do it a little bit before I get there and by then i'm moving fast enough for a pretty hard impact on the rear end. Would this mean getting a different drive clutch spring, clutch shoes, would it be driven clutch, or a combination of some or all? Top end speed is definately not an issue, and if I had to lose a little I could handle that... I just don't want the hesitation between pushing the gas and tires turning.

 

I would recommend getting a Dynoport pipe and going with a either a Polaris green or Dalton blk/white primary spring either a aaen blue or old HPD violet secondary try stock weights
Trhe pipe will liven up the power more than annthing

 

I'm sorry... I forgot to tell you guys that I have DG Xtreme exhaust on it now(full kit)... and You're right it did liven it up considerably, but While the engine does what it's told, the rear tires don't, alteast not without some lag. As far as the springs go, can somebody give me an explanation on what the lbs mean at the two different highths? Which one does what and what a higher/lower weight does to it? Thanks for the input and suggestions ftwflh...

 

Go to the RAZER clutch belt

 

I know I might be asking a bit much here but is there a certain year or size razer(I don't know much about them) to order the belt for or do you happen to have a part number for the one that will fit my bike?

 

( orange primary , purple secondary )
I found this set up online.
You could also try lighter rollers.

The more tension on the springs the quicker the engagement and the reduction of lag.

Go on youtube and watch how a clutch works.. the primary is in front and the secondary is the rear.
look for a movie with the cage on cover off.

Oh
The belt - If you have not changed it in sometime or never changed it I would swap it out since the belt can stretch and this can cause it to become "longer" and effect engagement.

 

Thank you very much for the info about looking it up on youtube King Quad! I found a series of videos by EPI, it was for a sportsman, but it looks to be the same as i have on mine just with different colored springs. It looked pretty straight forward so I will probably be doing this very soon, along with a new heavy duty(atleast) belt. So correct me if I'm wrong, the higher the weight of the primary springs at 2 1/2" and 1 1/4" will make the tires engage quicker? or will it rev higher and grab almost instantaneous at a higher rpm? Also are the "rollers" you are talking about the weights? if so, what would lighter ones do? what about heavier ones?

 

You could also go with a 12 tooth sprocket of the front.You will loose some of your top end speed but gain more bottom end torque.

To get better throttle response you could replace the factory reed cage with an aftermarket one.After that your best bang-for-the-buck mods would be to switch to a larger carb like the 38mm TMX or 39 PWK and then go with an aftermarket head with a higher compression ratio.

 

1st I am not an expert as to the proper size you may have to play with the spring color and possibly shims to get exactly what you want.
The vehicle while running is spinning the primary and secondary when you hit the throttle the primary gets smaller and the secondary gets wider or vise versa and the speed at which this happens removes your lag. Too much tension and you flip over on your head if you have the CC's too little and you can count 1/2 a mississippi before you take off.
The rollers are on the inside or body side of the primary clutch shieve and are held in place by the fixed plate. The heavier the roller the slower the reaction... lighter rollers quicker reaction. The whole system works on centrifical force.
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Maybe an expert or machinst will chime in but you are really just trying to trick the motor into doing what it is already doing that much faster.
Now there is much more to this equation. The spring and rollers will help with the take off and some low end but not mid range or top speed.
You could spend a bunch of money and have the primary as well as the secondary / fixed plate /rollers ect done in addition to the pipe to make it really scream but then again that would depend on how fast do you need to go and are you on a trail or track.

If you are looking to get the max out of your bike I would google your make and model and find someone who will machine the clutches.
This will give you the most bang for your buck since it changes the angles allows the belt to sit lower. This gives a little more bite and makes the bike engage quicker.

 

Thanks again King Quad, it's capable now of fliping over backwards so I know if I get the heaviest springs I won't be able to let my daughter ride it anymore... So, as far as I can understand your (non)suggestion... If I get springs that are a little heavier on both 2 1/2" and 1 1/4" it would engauge harder/sooner but if I go too big it'll just rip over backwards if I stab it? if that's the case I can basicaly go from there on playing with different combinations with my drive/driven springs. I'll have to find out what weight rollers I have in it now and see if I can locate some that are lighter. Any suggestions on how much lighter to go on the rollers? Should I even be thinking about changing my flyweights? If so should I go lighter or heavier? I mostly trail ride, but I do a good bit of woods and sand pit riding also and I don't care to ever do any racing on a track or anything like that... it's just to go out and ride with my buddies and have a good time.......