So, I couldn't find anything wrong with the wires going to the coil, so I decided to take the hub apart. Everything was clean and didn't seem to have any magnetism on any of the parts. Before taking the wheel apart it wouldn't engage in awd, after I got everything back together with new fluid the wheel won't come out of awd. Will it hurt anything if I drove it in awd all the time off pavement until I can find a fix? And do you have any more suggestions?

 

Did you torque the hub nut to 12 foot pounds only? Plus did you check that the coil would pull the armature plate from your hand and hold it when you had the ignition on,in gear with the awd switch on? Was the coil and sleeve and inner pole of strut in good shape and not ground down by the armature plate? Did the 3 tabs on the armature plate line up with the cutouts in the roll cage? The most common wear item on this type assembly is the armature plate especially if it becomes magnetized over a period of time against the coil or if the hub nut is too tight, it will allow awd even in two wheel drive mode. The armature plate is cheap (about 12 bucks per side) and best to replace them if all else checks out. Not a good idea to drive it like it is. OPT

 

Well, I tore it back down again today. The coil will not pull the armature with the s
Key on and switch on. Still not showing any resistance between the wires either. I put it back together and torqued it properly, now it is back to where it was. It will not engage into awd, but at least it isn't engaged all the time now. Looks like I'm going to have to take it to the shop, I hate paying to have something fixed. I'd rather do it myself but lack of knowledge and tools has me in a pickle.

 

Resistance between the gray and brown coil wires should be between 24-28 ohms I think. If the coil needs replacement best to have a manual or have it replaced along with new armature plates. OPT

 

i figured out the problem finally, the wires from the coil pulled right out of the strut from the coil. i guess they weren't connected to the coil and thats why i could never get a resistance reading. Question is, how do i remove the coil? Is it pressed into the throat of the strut? Can i drive it out of the strut and when the new one gets here take it to get it pressed in or can i carefully "press" it in with tools i already own?

 

You'll end up damaging the coil sleeve when you knock it off (needs to be replaced anytime you remove one) IF you're able to repair the coil wires just stick em back in the channel groove and silicone em good! Install the new coil sleeve. Best to heat it up a little(use gloves),silicone around the strut where the sleeve fits and gently tap the sleeve on with a block of wood while checking all around with a straight edge that the sleeve is straight and the edge must NOT go past the inner strut pole(part of the strut where the coil slips over). You must be either flush with the inner pole or maximum .001 clearance between the sleeve and inner pole. The silicone will harden and keep the sleeve in place. Hope you can save the coil,seems like every time I tapped a sleeve off the plastic insulation on the coil face would crack. OPT

 

So the coil actually slips over the neck of the hub and not inside the throat of the hub? The detail on the parts site isn't very clear to me. How would you recommend knocking the sleeve off without damaging the strut housing?

 

Yes the coil slips over the milled portion of the strut with the inner pole of the strut barely past the coil assembly. This pole is what lines up with the outer coil sleeve. Plus I've had to replace entire struts if this inner milled part has been ground down or damaged by by the armature plate from lack of oil,hub too tight,etc.If you have to replace the coil be careful. The coil is siliconed in also and can break very easy if you have to remove the outer sleeve. Just use a sharp chisel to tap the sleeve off the strut without making any gouge marks. OPT