Internal bearing puller not needed as you you heat the case around the internal c/b bearing with a propane torch for a couple minutes and a sharp slap on a wooden block will remove it. Easiest way to install the crank back in the case is to have both pto side(clutch) side bearings on the crank shaft.Place the crank shaft in the freezer,have the left case side on wood blocks Or just make a small wood box to hold the case side up off the work bench. Heat the bearing area up thoroughly for several minute,then take the crank from the freezer and it will drop straight in the case!This way you don't have to beat on the end of the crank shaft! While it's cooling heat the right side case up and install the single crank bearing and the c/b bearing in the case.Helps to have a bearing/race tool set or just tap lightly around the bearings with a brass/dead blow hammer. After cases have cooled use Yamabond or Three Bond 1104 or 1194 around the cases(what I used)
Install the right case over the crank,use a dead blow or brass hammer to set the cases.Torque the case bolts down and the basic engine is done.Then you can install the crank seals. After the outer bearing, w/p bearing and seals are installed on the 3rd case,I just used a thin film of Threebond around the case then installed the gasket in place.The rest is just step by step. Just follow the manual.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse

 

Slowly picking away at reassembly tonight. Tightening down the outer case and water pump stud snapped. I am wondering if i NEED to find a replacement stud or will a properly sized bolt do the same job. I don't know for sure if i can find such a stud locally. Any thoughts? Thanks

 

Don't use a bolt!You can try a good hardware store to see if they have this 6mm stud. If not,try a local shop and see if they have an old engine laying around.

 

sorry I didn't follow up my last post.
242 blue won't work.
262, 271 red might work, but it's a thread locker, not a bearing/sleeve retainer.

 

Well it took a while but I got it all back together. Found a little bit longer of a stud at the hardware store. Had a heck of a time keeping the third case piece hot enough to slip it on with only one set of hands. A couple new fuel filters and a coolant line and it was ready to run. A tank full of 50:1 pre-mix for break in and it fired right up. Idled with the front lifted to help bleed air from the coolant. Dropped it down to test it a little and low gear is very hard to keep the tire on the ground. I think this has needed a rebuild since i've owned it. Let it cool completely while I ate dinner and put the rest of the plastics on. Took it for a short ride at varrying throttle last night and I am in love. I thought I enjoyed the ride on this before, but the difference is impressive. Thanks for all the help. Any input on further break in? How many tank fulls of pre-mix? I wish I did this before we went to New Hampshire.

 

Usually one tank is sufficient on break in.Letting it cool down before riding helps more than a lot of people realize.If you didn't bleed the 10mm screw at the back of the head,do this before you drive it again! Raising the front end helps on air removal,but some could still be trapped in the engine and it could run hot very quickly.Bleed until nothing but coolant flows out,tighten the bleed screw, then top off the coolant. Good luck on the new engine.

 

Thanks again all your help is greatly appreciated.