Bought my first wheeler, and now believing I made a bad buy. I Knew it needed tlc from the get go, but i like to tinker. Did a top end rebuild, since the jug was scourn. Main problem now. Doesn't want to idle quite right, and when turned off, gas fills up the air box. Needle and seat were replaced. carb cleaned numerous times. My polaris guy found white soapy oil in the counter balancer, water; i know, and says the pressure or lack of? in the counter balancer is causing it not to burn all the fuel and backing it up, but only backs up when not running. I've never changed the oil in the CB, since I just bought it. Just wondering if that's a logical explaination or its perhaps more of a carb problem (adjustment). However I know the CB seals must be shot. Any info would help before I decide to scrap the thing.

 

Milky looking counter balancer fluid is because the internal water pump seals are leaking into the counter balancer cavity. This was and still is a good engine,but not one that you can usually do just partial repairs on and get by with. This is a complicated engine and has many serviceable parts.Also most people over look crank shaft seals that can leak air and cause running problems. The crank case itself has two seals and the counter balancer cavity or the 3rd engine case has one to keep the 75cc of c/b oil inside the 3rd cover.The water pump has two seals and a bearing that need to be replaced.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse http://www.cyclepartswarehouse.com/f...1994&fveh=5386
If you don't have a service manual,look this pdf manual over on this engine.http://gh-ftp.com/ORV%20Manuals/Pola...0All%20Models/

 

Thanks for the response. So your thinking its just the water pump seals and bearing? Or all the bearings you mentioned?

 

Water pump seals and the w/p bearing for sure on the milky colored fluid because coolant has mixed with the c/b oil. As far as the engine still running bad, the crank seals also could be the leaking causing the problem. To be honest with you after all the two strokes I worked on over the years,the only way to repair one is to do it right from the rod kit on up. I know it's costly,but if not you'll just be going back and forth on repairs.

 

Sounds like a real pain I have.. 1 more thing. The drain tube on the bottom of my carb, has a vaccumm like filter inline with the tube. Seems like it's a one way check valve. Air can only get sucked in? Is this how it should be? I took it off, and saw some fuel coming out of it? And then the engine reved higher. Again probably not normal? Seen nothing about it in my clymers manual so wondering. Is there any tricks for adjusting the choke cable? Like how many threads out, of the carb and so on? . Don't think its adjusted right.

 

Throw the check valve away and run separate vent lines up under the tank and a separate drain line from the carb bowl. Half the time they fall off any way.Since the engine speed increased when you removed it,possibly this was the problem if the valve was backwards and if the vent line was still teed into it. Loosen the 10mm lock nut on the choke adjuster on the carb and turn the adjuster in or out until you have about 1/8" or so slack on the choke lever. Then tighten the lock nut.

 

There wouldnt be a detailed schematic of the routing of all those vent tubes out there? The vent tube on the top of the carb is running to right behind the pull starter and you can't blow air into it either, if that matters? . And there is no "T's" under the gas tank. Just a single line from the tank with a aftermarket shutoff then a filter, straight to the carb.

 

The "t" would have been hooked up along with the check valve.There will be a separate counter balancer cavity vent tube(above the recoil) that needs to be routed up past the exhaust pipe. This line and carb vent lines sometimes get burnt by the exhaust pipe. BOTH upper lines on the carb are vents.DON'T have the carb vent line going to the counter balancer vent opening! Just run new separate vent lines if need be and zip tie up out of the way along with the c/b vent tube. The fuel valve ,line and filter sounds okay. I've seen this before if the tank valve won't completely shut off fuel flow,people would add another shut off valve inline.Plus a lot of the time the real problem was a leaking needle and seat in the carb.