Quite a few farmers,ranchers,spraying trees,feeding cattle,running/repairing fence lines do it all the time down here. After all it is a Polaris and can take it..

 

The red light came on twice, never boiled out and fan ran a lot. Then the right axle yoke to front diff must have snapped in half. Pin is still in the shaft, u joint was good i have no idea what happened.

 

Stress on the yoke,faulty or bent casting,any number of reasons for this to happen. You can see how expensive on oem parts if you just try to repair the yoke assy even if the cv joint is okay.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse
Might be cheaper alternative to look at an aftermarket assy for 115 bucks.Just depends if the shaft yoke is salvageable. http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATV-Complete-CV-Axle-Shaft-Front-Left-Right-Polaris-Scrambler-500-2000-2001-2002-/361014211589?hash=item540e1fb405&vxp=mtr

 

Im still concerned that the red light went in a few times. If the thermostat is the cause can i run it without it?

 

In your first post you said the hot light didn't come on? Thermostats were never really a problem,only replaced a couple. One machine was run completely dry on coolant,the other when the small brass pin in the thermostat had kicked at an angle that didn't allow it to open fully. Most common cause of hot lights were trapped air pockets in the cooling system, dirty radiators especially at the rear around the fan area or the radiator sensor itself either shorted out or getting weak. Plus you can check the fan by direct voltage and see if speed decreases which could mean bearings could be beginning to fail.Item #2 is the coolant sensor.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse You can also remove the cap,elevate the front wheels and run long enough to remove any possible air in the lines. You can test the resistance of the radiator sensor cold and when hot at the connector. Resistance should drop as it gets hot. Plus there is a sealed 20 amp fuse under the front panel that also controls fan power. Just check that it has power on each side. Slice the pouch open if in doubt to check for corroded terminals. You can get replacements at any auto store cheap. Same for the radiator sensor. Can be substituted for a Wells sensor and use your connector end.Wells Vehicle Electronics Cooling Fan Switch SW526: Upgrade with the best Engine Cooling Fan Switch -Performance at Advance Auto Parts Several things here you can check out if alarmed about the light coming on.

 

The light never went on at idle. After a good ride of about an hour the light popped on, it never boiled out, ill check for air in the system. The fan sensor is about a year old and dirt in rad back side. Thanks for the help. Ill be posting a axle and ball joint question next so get ready. Thnx for ur help