Hi

I am changing my sportsman 2006 450 old solenoid and I'm having problem with 2 little wires. I'm ok with the battery wires and the wire coming from the start switch but their is also 2 little wire. On my old solenoid, they were black and white and on my new one they are yellow and blue. I'm not sure if I can connect them with the old one, are those wire important anyway ?

This is my old solenoid :

http://s12.postimg.org/t09mipsy5/WP_20140918_001.jpg

And my new one :

http://s12.postimg.org/o0c6arnbh/WP_20140918_003.jpg

I'm not sure if I bought exactly the good solenoid as my polaris is a 450 and I bought one for a 500. I bought this one :

Starter Solenoid Relay Fits Polaris Sportsman 500 2006 2010 | eBay

 

Guilty myself of this.. Bought a set of cheap Bike Master Chinese rear turn signals for the old Honda couple years back that were an exact copy of the high $ oem. Left side original signal wiring was Orange and Green,right side wiring was Blue and Green. I knew Green was ground(same as your Brown wire is),BUT the cheap signals wiring were Blue and Black.. Hooked left side up using turn signal Black to the Green,Blue to Orange and bulb lit dimly and didn't flash.Reversed the wiring and the signal worked fine. Black ended up being the power wire,Blue was the GROUND.. You can try Blue to the Brown,but can't guarantee it's right.You'll find out real quick and hopefully no damage to the solenoid if you have to reverse the wires. After all it's Chinese and cheap and we both got what we paid for..

 

According to the wiring diagrams for he 2006 the solenoid coil is isolated , it shouldn't make any difference which way the small wires are hooked up .

 

Good point! Yes,possible that it doesn't make any difference on the solenoid trigger coil since it shows to be isolated and and doesn't share another common ground from the harness and also with the white/red power wire going directly to the switch. Just makes a loop and could possibly work either way unlike all the other components that do tie in to a common ground like my turn signals did. Then it would make a difference as to which wire is which.Only way to find out is to just hook it up. If the ignition switch doesn't trigger the solenoid,reverse the leads.

 

You were right. The small wires wasn't important, one or the other was doing the same thing. Problem is, it still do not start. It still do the same as with the old solenoid, or at least it's very similar (not exactly the same sound).

It was going this with the old solenoid :


And it do this with the new one :


A friend of mine who is a car mechanics told me that it was probably the solenoid as the sound was coming from there. On the second video I let it do it initial checkup and I have a battery flashing error. I'm pretty sure it was doing the same with the old one.

The battery is fine and well charged. Also, I can start it manually without any problem. The sound really like to come from the solenoid, any idea of what it could be ?

Edit : Currently their is two wires going to the solenoid top pole. A small one connecting to the positive terminal of the battery and the other one i'm not sure, I think it go to the ignition switch. To the bottom pole I have a red wire connected, I'm pretty sure this one go to the starter. The two small wires are connected to the old ones. I'm pretty sure wiring is ok with the solenoid.

 

Have you switched the two wires to see if there is any difference? Made sure the connections are tight?Plus the battery may have a full charge,but can have a dead cell. Has it been load tested? May be the problem is the battery itself since the battery wrench shows right up on the display.

Here's a test you can do..
"All you need is a digital voltmeter. For any load test to be accurate, the battery must be fully charged. Let's use a motorcycle battery for an example. Remove the seat and expose the battery in your bike so that you have access to the terminals. Do not disconnect the battery because you will attempt to start the bike. Hold the prongs of your voltmeter to the correct terminals on the battery. Now push the starter button and watch what the voltage drops to. It doesn't matter if the bike starts or not, what you're looking for is a voltage reading.

DC VoltageA healthy 12 volt motorcycle battery should maintain a range from 9.5 - 10.5 volts under the load for a good 30 seconds straight. If the battery begins to hold and then steadily drops in voltage, there is a problem. If the voltage instantly drops to 0 volts, that is also a problem. We call this the open cell. On a new battery, this can be a result of manufacturing flaws, but it also may be caused by sulfate crystal buildup. Under the intense heat of the load, one or more of the weld pieces connecting the cells is coming loose and separating. This will cut the current, and voltage will drop. When the battery cools off, the pieces will touch, barely giving a complete connection. This gives you a false voltage reading. Batteries with open cells may read fully charged in idle, but they fail under a load test every time. Once a battery reaches this point, there is no going back. The best thing to do is recycle the thing."
Plus don't overlook the starter bendix. One video sounded like it was just spinning and not engaging?

 

Thanks for the instructions.

I just did the test and realized that the battery is completly dead... I haven't suspected it in the first place as this battery is about only 1 year old and the charger was telling me it was fully charged. It is a Carquest NGT Extreme so I presumed it would last 3 or more year at least. It test something like 10.5v fully charged and this drop to 8.5-9v only if I turn the key one step, before actually starting.

I will be shopping for a new battery now. Thanks again for your help.

 

You're not the first one on this as I ask this question all the time on peoples posts and most reply yes it shows over 12 volts,the battery is ok.. That's why I stress load testing batteries, checking connections before doing anything major. Don't assume a battery is good even if it shows 12.5-12.8 volts after charging as it can drop real quick under any load.I've serviced up batteries straight out of the box,placed them on our multi bank trickle charger at the shop only to find some wouldn't pass a load test after fully charging. We kept the load tester hanging up on the wall by the battery charging station to make sure each one was ok before it was sold over the counter or installed in any machine.Failures weren't just on the cheaper line of batteries we sold such as Bike Master which actually is a good battery over all,but found some high $ Yuasa and Interstate failures also. I had stacks of batteries that we had picked up and were issued credit for. Hope this solves all your problems with the new battery.Plus if it cranks up ok with the new battery check that it's charging at least 14 volts back to the battery at an idle.