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2004 700 Twin carb model Stator Ohms

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  #11  
Old 01-05-2016, 10:24 AM
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Just a follow-up.....
I went home and tried hooking up the wires as OPT said....all worked. It was charging @ 1500RPM somewhere aroung 14.5 > 14.9. (15 topps) I checked the break-even point but it was aways charging...even at idle. At idle it was 13v there abouts. When I would give it gas ( just a little) it would run the charging voltage up to the above #'s.

Also...I rerun the choke cable and it seems to be working lots better. I got it out side last night...it was 35f or some where close to that and let it warm up for bout 10 mins., ( stop watched it) and let the choke off and then I adjusted the idle screw on the bottom of the carb so that it was idleing around 1050/ 1100 RPM. I'm going to try it again tonight just to ck and see if all is good.

Also....I got the call from the tech @ Rick's.....he said that my bike has a 3 phase stator on it and that it didn't make any differance how I wired the yellows up. NOW if it were a earlier model...one with a single phase / center tap stator....it would make a differance. So all is good.

OPT...Thank you for your knowledge and willingness to share that info that you have stored up there in your body PC.

Hump
 
  #12  
Old 01-05-2016, 01:30 PM
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Glad it's working good for you. Newer machines with stronger stators/regulators do charge better at idle than the older systems that had to be revved up.
 
  #13  
Old 01-11-2016, 09:30 AM
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O.k....what I thought was running better is not after all. Got over to the club and let it warm up Saturday before going out to the field and it seemed like it didn't want to idle again. Temp in the 50's, sunny. Rode it out into the field, got it wet & muddy. A ride of about 3 mins. Then let it idle while I put out the decoys. After I got out there, it seemed O.K. Rode it back in and let it sit the rest of the day. Sunday morning...big difference. Temps have now fallen down into the lower 20's and got winds out of the north at bout 10-15. Got out there to warm up and the choke seemed like it was froze up. It didn't want to pull out. When I did get it to come out...it didn't want to go back in. After working with it some, got it to go almost back in but not all the way. So I headed out to the same place as the day before. It ran like it was loading up. Got to missing and coughing and didn't want to go. But I made it to where I could at least walk in and not get the bike wet again. Coming out it did the same thing. Loaded it up and got home and set in the garage and let it warm up and started to pull the carb but said lets try it again now. Choke cable seem to start working better. Let it warm up 5 mins or so and then got on it and road around through the hood (10 mins or so) just to see what it would do. Ran fine. Only the idle was all over the place....850 to 1350. up and down. Just when I though it would settle out it would stumble and start the up and down again. I did notice that when it would die...sometimes I would hear it and once felt a back blow from down around the carb. Is this a possible air leak that is causing my Idle problem? Seems like I read somewhere that a intake leak would cause a rough idle
Only got 3 weeks left in the season and don't really want to get into the carb till after the season closes.
thanks,
hump
 
  #14  
Old 01-11-2016, 09:32 AM
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I was thinking....if it is a air leak...I can spray some WD-40 down around the carb and if it is indeed leaking....it will rev up. That will tell me if I got a leak for sure. Will have to try that once I get back home tonight from work.
Hump.
 
  #15  
Old 01-11-2016, 09:38 AM
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OPT......if I have to pull the carb.....whats the best way to get it off? Pull the gas tank, air intake to the belt and top cowling.....cowling means pulling the front rack and removing the top bracket that holds it plus all the screws and bolts on the fenders and so forth.
hump
 
  #16  
Old 01-11-2016, 12:39 PM
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Remove the air box.Remove the carb brace,loosen the carb clamp,pull the carb back out of the way.Remove the intake manifold clamp and check for cracks or splits. A lot of the 700s and 800s had this happen and ran crappy. Only way to tell is to remove the clamp.If you need a new boot,here is a cheap one,plus I'd order a new choke cable while you're at it. Magnum Racing Intake Manifold Carburetor Boot Sportsman 600 700 MV7 2002 2006 | eBay
 
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