The armature plates are a bit worn, not bent and look good (for being an old bike), just have the 2 ware marks on them. Since the engine is out and electrical disconnected (for a complete rebuild) I just ran 12 volts to the bike, turned the key on, looked at the kill switch.....its on, set to the run position, depress the AWD button and nothing!??????........ i checked ohms to the coils, good, checked voltage from batt, good, i turned the lights on and nothing, no lights! i went through all the idiot stuff. Key on, battery power, KILL SWITCH, the kill switch is finicky, full of mud wasp crap and dirt. cleaned it out. everything electrically works now. but i will put new seals in the hubs. everything looks good in that area. and replace the armature plates. the bearings are in great shape. Do Not put grease in these bearings. Your not towing a trailer. Use the polaris hub fluid or atf fluid.

 

Armature plates try to stick to the seal sleeve when in gear and in awd mode? If not check that the sleeve hasn't moved. If it gets past .001 out or in with the strut inner pole,the plate may loose pull from the coil. Two wear rings are normal on armature plates. Always replace plates when you tear into the system.Too cheap of a parts to take a chance and reuse. Left control switches have always been a problem and if it acts up again replace it. Expensive($112 at Partzilla) but at least it's still available unlike on many other models. Polaris quit using Atf years ago when they went to Demand Drive hub fluid,but the older manuals still call for it. It was better than Atf and so is the newer Demand Drive Plus.If you have any awd engagement problems in the future you can bypass that shifter switch that a lot of people have had problems with. You can completely bypass the gear selector switch in the AWD circuit by connecting the gray/white wire to the red/white wire terminal section on the terminal board.Another member posted on this also recently also.https://atvconnection.com/forums/pol...ml#post3387027