Just to eliminate the coil,have a meter set on ohms, positive (+) meter lead on the coil tab,the connection that the blue wire from the cdi goes to. Negative meter lead to ground which in your case is a good frame ground or the small brown ground wires that attach to the coil to the frame tab. Reading should be around 0.3 ohms. Secondary,coil tab to plug wire with plug cap removed should be around 6.3k ohms. Plug cap,3.7-5k ohms resistance.

 

The coil tested out good and discontinuing the black wires didn't do anything

 

All the tests,the etc switch,the stator and pick up coil resistance tests(even if they've been replaced) the coil resistance check(replaced also) along with disconnecting the ignition switch and left control switch kill circuits is mainly to work around the cdi since it doesn't have a test.Only way on it was to isolate it from other components. The test for the cdi as the problem area was to "replace with a known good one" quoted from most manuals. Not a good option for individuals but ok for shops that have easy access to them. Before you happen to look for one recheck the stator area mounting especially the stator ground wire as some have had problems there.Have to have good solid grounds or you can have no spark or weak spark condition also.