Has anyone had a problem with the driven clutch coming apart? I have been battling driven clutch problems for the past month or so. It all started with me blowing apart two sets of factory clutch buttons. So, I ordered a set of HPD super buttons along with an HPD Kevlar belt. After installing them, it ran great for about 15 minutes, but then I felt the clutch go out again. Remember, this is the 3rd clutch problem in 3 rides!!!! When I took it apart this time, the outer portion of the driven clutch had completely screwed itself loose from the inside portion. I'm wondering if this had been loose the whole time and was contributing to the clutch buttons disintegrating? In any case, does anyone know if you can buy the driven clutch pieces separately? The threads in the outer section are pretty butched up. Any idea of prices?????

 

Are you talking about the "drive" clutch? The secondary or "driven" clutch has no threads. If you are not skilled in PVT clutch tuning; please take it to a dealer. Your clutch problems are a very isolated string of incidents. It appears from here that the clutch was not properly assembled. The primary clutch is held together by threads. The secondary is held together by a clip ring inserted around the splines where the sheave shaft passes through the back of the helix. Also; are the HPD Super Sport buttons sitting flush in the three little pockets in the driven clutch? Often; you need to grind some material off of the sides of the three pockets so the buttons sit all the way down into the pockets. Good Luck!

 

I consider myself very competent in clutch tuning. This question really has nothing to do with tuning though. I am merely asking this question because I have never seen this happen before. The secondary clutch DOES have threads, trust me. In fact, the piece is reverse threaded!!! When the helix is removed, there appears to be only two pieces. That is a misconception. Normally the back side of the driven clutch pulls off and you are left with the front piece, which appears to have a machined cylinder (sheave)attached to it. Well, that cylinder has threads on it. These two pieces have worked themselves apart. The sheave is a hardened metal. The front side of the driven clutch is aluminum. When the two pieces came apart, it messed up the aluminum threads.

The superbuttons are fine. Already ground everything down so it doesn't hit. Does anyone know how much a new driven clutch, minus the helix runs?????

 

I stand corrected. I had completely forgotten about those threads. I have never seen one of those come apart. It's possible that it was never tightened properly from the factory. If the sheave and shaft had been loose all along; yes, this would cause slop where the helix contacts the buttons and cause the shearing of the buttons. A secondary runs about $200.00. Not sure if you can order seperate parts. Try finding one at a dealer that has done EBS switchovers. I've purchased new takeoffs for $100.00 at the dealers.

P.S. I wasn't trying to say that you were incompetent. I just didn't want you to get hurt if the clutches were being improperly assembled.

 

Thanks for the advice. I appreciate it! I have an email into my dealer about a takeoff secondary clutch. I hope this clutch problem is a fluke because I have wasted way too much time and money screwing with it!!!!!

 

A co-worker of mine has a '01 HO and his primary clutch "tornadoed" itself into a hundred pieces. He showed me the pics and it was a real mess. Polaris said it was possibly from a faulty process in the manufacturing of the clutch. This is an isolated incident and shouldn't cause people to worry. Polaris is going to cover his clutch (both primary and driven) at no cost. I have also heard that the early models with the EBS were having problems with the clutch staying engaged and surging forward when starting. haven't been informed of any recalls on this or causes. Perhaps any of you would know of this and preventitive measures?