I've been given a tip about cleaning out the driven clutch on my 2000 SP. I am going to try this as I really don't know what else to do, but have the carb checked for jetting adjustments. Still in search of the elusive +44mph. To remove the cover on the clutch, you just remove the snapring retainer that surrounds the mounting bolt? Removing the bolt is the easy part. I don't really want to pull the driven clutch off, I don't have a puller. But if I could just clean it out, checking the rollers and ramps with the clutch on the bike, it would be sweet. If you've had this apart, or recommendations or "whatever you do...don't....." let me know.

 

If you remove the bolt in the center of the clutch,the whole clutch comes off. Just twist the outer part of clutch to make the halves spread apart and move belt as far down between them as possible. It will be a little tough as it is under spring tension. Now the snap ring you mentioned- Mark helix to hub position with marker or whatever for reassembly. With driven clutch on floor press down on helix and remove snap ring. After snap ring is removed slowly let up on helix. As the spring tension is released the upper part of the clutch pulley will rotate from the ramps(on helix) and spring tension. When it stops rotating make an another mark to ease in assembly. Lift helix the rest of the way off. The spring is red in color, if you want quicker back-shifting and better hold back while going down hills,replace it with a purple one. Did that on my Sportsman 335 and I rarly use my brakes for going down hills (Non EBS).During reassembly Have someone hold the other side of pulley to put spring and helix back in pulley. Also make note of which hole spring was in . You'll know what I mean when you get it apart. Hope I didnt forget anything, it has been awhile. Good Luck.

 

I would not try what rammer suggested due to the fact he is describing breakdown of a NON-EBS clutch. A 2000 500 sportsman most likely has EBS a 335 does not. From looking at a shop manual I know they are very different and do not use the same style springs.

 

Do you know where your clutches are operating at WOT? This is the first place to start if you think that your clutching is off. Take a marker and mark the outer diameter of your drive clutch and take the bike for a mile or two run at WOT and then check your front clutch to see if its shifting up all the way. The marker will indicate how far your belt is riding up in the front clutch, you can also do this for your driven clutch but just mark the inner diameter so you can tell how far down it is shifting. I would try tightning the spring on the back clutch to keep it from shifting down to quick, if it shifts to quick for the motor then it will never achieve top end. In some cases if your not getting the top end you should or what other similar ATV's are getting, you also get better gas mileage because its running in Over Drive. When cleaning a clutch alot of dealers say to use Acetone.
Just my 2cents.

 

I thought the driven clutch(on transmision) was the same for EBS and non-EBS. I know the drive(on engine) clutches are different. I put the referance to the springs for anyone who reads the post that might have wanted to know that it helps the non-EBS machines.IF the cluches are the same,it will still help the back shifting on the EBS. I guess i should have been more clear about that. Sorry
Also you don't need a puller for the driven clutch. Forgot to mention that.

 

No the two clutchs are different the non ebs has a heilex and the ebs version uses what looks like a w each vally and land is about an inch high check with technical service at polaris phone # is -1-218-463-2312 speak to bryce evans he should be able to help you or give you info on were to look or what else it might be

 

how far down should the belt go in the driven clutch? Should it ride completely on the horizontal part of the inner sheave, or should it still remain 1/2" above the bottom, like mine does?

 

At wot it should be at the top of you primary clutch and olmost all the way down on your secondary clutch you should also check your centre distance it should be 10/1/4" to 10/1/8 to little will slow you way down and also clutch alinment premature belt wear if it is out of alinment