it sounds like youre coming to your senses and going to take the cases apart. what engines have you rebuilt? i work as a small engine mechanic and i would rate this as a bastard. there is so much stuff to remember but thats where the manual helps. just getting the motor out might be hell our bolt was rusted and we had to cut motor out. i think you might be better taking it somewere. there are special tools for pulling cases apart and pulling flywheel, its not a 1 hour project. i would guess anywheres from 8 to 10 hours for rebuild with cleanup and reassmbly. as for the no thrust washers thats not right. I would call someone who knows what there talkin about for parts beacuas i also know for a fact the wiseco piston dont come with a piston pin. rebuilding this engine and having it stay together is a complicated thing i just dont know if you could do it. im not knocking you just trying to help. and as for no carbon on head at all do you know what piston wash is? you should have some carbon on the head. as for gum? not in a 2 stroke . when you look at your cylinder is the sleeve cracked or ports
kinicked or funny wear pattern?

Bill

 

i took the cylinder in and it needs to be bored to .30 over.there is some carbon.but not much.the piston and head look like new.it wasnt old topend.never fould plugs.i have rebuilt chrysler 383,440 and chevy 350.i did a complete motor swap in my toyota.we have gear pullers and tools like that.im not going to take it somewhere.im still deciding if im going to do it or not.it says on rockymountainatv.com that the wiseco prolite piston kit comes with a wristpin...will the rm250 top bering fit on the lt250 rod?

 

i just called wiseco and talked to a tech.this is what he said about thrust washers:
"you do not have to use thrust washers on the piston wristpin if you have thrust washers on the crank pin.if you do not have thrust washers on the crank pin then you have to use them on the wristpin.in stock form they came with thrust washers on the wristpin and crank pin.if you have a hotrod rod he said something about using spacers."this is with a weisco piston ofcourse.

 

If you have the engine out of the frame and the top end off, all you have to do to split the cases is remove the the flywheel and stator on one side and the clutch and basket on the other side. I think the counterbalancer has to come off too. You really should have a manual because alot of tranny parts just fall out when you split'em. Also, there is no gasket between the cases so make sure you don't try to pry them apart. Get your crank rebuilt and change your oil seals and you'll know that the engine is solid from top to bottom. The only special tools that you'd probably need is a flywheel puller and probably a leak down tester (but you can make one of those).

Don't know much about the wristpin washer deal. I read on macdizzy that on alot of built zillas they don't use them.

 

On the fuel/oil ratio, remember, there are 128 ozs. in 1 gallon. If you want 20:1 you simply divide 128 by 20. ( 128 / 20 = 6.4 ) If you want 32:1 fuel oil mixture, you divide 128 by 32. ( 128 / 32 = 4 ) Putting 4 ounces of 2 stroke oil in 1 gallon of gas means you would have 32 times as much gas than oil, hence 32:1 fuel oil mixture. Hopefully this helps those of you that were not sure how to figure your mixture.

NeedaR, good luck with your rebuild. That is a clean looking quadracer.

 

The easiest way to get your fuel mixture correct is to go to your local dealer and ask for a Ratio Rite. They are about five or six dollars and they take about half the time and half the brain power. They can also be used to put the exact amount of oil into your tranny.

 

i was wondering if you got her all flushed out and running again. curios to see how it worked out.

 

i got it all flushed out.the top end kit is on its way.im in another delima with my powervalve cap now.see post "powervalve cap".it should be up and running in no more than two weeks.anybody got any break in tips.iv never had to break in a two stroke?also how long should my piston last if nothing mechanically goes wrong or it dosnt run lean?what compression should it be at when its got a new topend? does shaving the head help in power?i want to be able to run 94 octane.how much does it bump up the comp.?how do head gaskets handle this?sorry for all the questions.thanks

 

should be up and going this weekend.got my topend rebuild kit today from midwestactioncycle.com.i highly reccomend them.it got to my house today.only took three days.it cost $105 shipped for all top end gaskets,.030 wiseco prolite piston,rings,circlips,wristpin,and top bering.it was a great deal.any how.how much compression should i have after the rebuild is complete?also any good breakin procedures?thanks

 

DRI break-in procedure. I don't think that many cool downs are necessary. The guy who rebuilt my engine builds big dollar shees everyday and says they let'em idle for a few minutes and then run it full throttle. I wasn't quite that brave so I did several idle and riding cool downs 'cause I figured it couldn't hurt.