Hey Dakbee,The honda shop by me tells me to run 20-50 in all high revving small engines n they been telln me this for over 30 years they tell me its better oil for my bikes.but im sure 10/40 works just fine.If I change my oil n dont have 20-50 on my shelf n I have just 10-40 I put the the 10-40 in.Now my 1987 230e Quadrunner does the same thing when I first start it smokes but stops after a minute.but runs great n idles perfect.If i were u just run it but keep n eye on your oil level.

 

Brandon I would get a used wireing harness of ebay from a 230s quadsport n use that unless you already have one?theres alot of things on the quadrunner harness you wont be needing.I cant remember what the harnesses look like from the 230s n 230e when I get home ill check to see what the plugs look like.

 

How can they tell you something for 30 years? Do you ask all the time?

I've run 10w-40 for a long time, not 30 yrs, but a long time. And I beat the $%^& out of my engines. I peg the throttle and fan the clutch to shift. One engine I was actually TRYING to wear out and couldn't. Finally got tired of waiting and just rebored a perfectly good jug because I wanted more power. In my experience, 10w-40 is good enough. I've never seen any cam bearing scoring due to my oil being too light. So, is 20w-50 better?

You have to think... are you going to be riding at really high temps for most of the engine's life? Or are you going to fire it up cold and tool around for a while, then shut it off, lollygag for a while, then fire it up cold again? Do you live in the tropics? Or do you live in a more temperate zone?

Personally, living in GA, the only time I would consider 20w-50 is if I was planning to race 500 miles and never let the engine cool after the initial start. But most of my riding is: Fire it up cold, goose it a could times, slap it in gear, haul *** at break-neck speed to the garden, shut it off. The engine doesn't even have time to warm up, yet I've beat the snot out of it. There is no way I would run 20w-50 under these conditions.

Not only that, but thicker oil saps more power from the engine having to churn all that thickness. The thicker oil stays between the clutch plates longer and takes longer for clutch engagement. Speaking of clutches, you have to use wet-clutch safe oil. SF or motorcycle oil.

 

Does anyone have experience with the LA Sleeve big bore kits? Are they reliable?

 

So I've got a 1986 LT230s. I rebuilt my carb with a new parts kit. While it runs much better than it did before, I have 2 issues. The 1st one is that i cannot get it to idle. That is not my main concern, at the moment anyway. I haven't messed with it much yet.

The main issue is that the throttle seems to be sticking wide open here and there. Although, it doesn't feel like the cable/lever is sticking. I'm thinking the slide int he carb may be getting hung up.

But before I pull it back out, I want to see if anyone has any input on assembling the slide. My main concern is the "spring plate" that sits over top of the jet needle where the spring rests in the slide. Is there a certain way this needs to be installed? The crappy Clymer manual says nothing about its orientation, and the way that it is shaped, it seems like there may be a specific way to put it in. I was thinking that MAY have something to do with my revving issues. Anyone?

 

Woody I had some of those problems too.First make sure your thumb throttle or twist throttle is clean n works freely.My biggest problem was running the throttle cable under the fuel tank it kept binding n not moving freely.I ended up buying a new cable for about $22.00 and where the the cable goes into the top of the carb must not interfer with the chassis.Now about the carb idle what i did on both my quads the clip on the needle I put it on the bottom setting it richen it up an both quads will idle for hours if I let them.Of course u will need to adjust the mixture alittle.Let us know how u make out.I still have the clip on lowest setting n no problems yet.

 

Jel, thanks for the info! I was thinking about moving the clip on the needle down. I also forgot to mention that I replaced the air filter with a new K&N.

But yeah, I'm going to check the throttle cable routing and move the needle clip in a couple of hours here. I'll report back later.

 

Wooderson somewhere on this site a person was saying stay away from K&N air filters,not sure why tho He had some issues with it maybe he wasn't oiling it rite.I've been useing the UNI Airfilter.
Got it on Ebay for under $30.00 free shipping.

 

Now I screwed up. As I was putting my engine back together after replacing my rings, I dropped the cam chain I have no idea how to get the timing back. What do I do now?
Also, I don't remember how the black, plastic rails that have something to do with my can chain went. How do I reinstall them?

 

Quinn its no problem that happens all the time.First take the Magneto cover off,on the flywheel is a O on it and that should line up with the mark on the left side case under your cylinder head where the 229 cc is stamped.now make sure none of your valves are opened now your cam gear has two dot marks on it they should be level straight across the top of the head or east to west across the top of head then install the two bolts to hold cam gear in place.now to install the black chain sliders i install the front slider in the cylinder before I put the head on and installed the back slider on the head before I installed the head. there a picture of how they go in the head on this site in VAULT.let me know how you make out.