I would if I had any of the original shifter. All I have is a little short shifter bolted to the engine directly. It makes shifting pretty hard on the foot. I've even tried wrapping the end with foam and tape, but it comes off quick.

 

No need to heat anything or cool anything. Take a hammer and pop the old ones out using a socket. Doesn't matter how they come out since they are junk. They come out easier than most people think. To replace them, line the bearing on the hole, take a socket the right size on the outside rim of the bearing and hammer it in as evenly as possible. If you don't have a socket big enough, for example the larger crank bearing, take your old bearing and use your old bearing to hammer it in. They will go in pretty easy.

 

So... why am I the only one here answering questions lol

 

Yeah, in my friend's 250s the bearings weren't even turning... the outter race was turning inside the case! That's bad! So they can't be in there very tight.

 

I did use the flywheel puller to pull the flywheel, not a generic 3 jaw puller. Really, the flywheel puller is the only "special" tool I needed...so far.

 

Thanks. I talked to Vince at Mr. Crankshaft and he said I could just hammer the bearings out, heat was only required if they were being difficult. He did suggest heating the bearing before sliding the crankshaft back in again.

 

Thanks. I used some air to clear any debris from the bearing and they seem to spin just fine with no unusual noise or catching. The bearing near the kick start idle gear, however, is not in good shape. I ordered a new one and will install it. I am still thinking about the main bearings...I know I will probably regret it if I do not change them.

 

There is more to worry about than just usual noises or catching. How much side play do they have? You don't want your crank flopping around. If you have them out, just replace them.

 

If I had them out I would replace them for sure, but currently they are still pressed into the cases. There is no unusual play that I can feel with my fingers, but I did not take a gauge to them to check for sure.

 

Usually a crank shouldn't slide back n forth more than .002 and I consider .001 any perceptable movement. That's how I set my intake valve... the smallest gap possible and still free some movement and hear a faint tapping.