<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: Bruincat

hey guys, will a longer rear shock wear the swing arm bearings or anything else out faster? the one i posted about in a previous post is longer than stock. also it seems as though i have an 87 swing arm on my 86 (if its not infact an 87 as the manufacturer plate has been removed). if i read correctly on a previous page they are different?



JustRandy...could you pm me the pics and what not for the extended a-arms. seriously thinking about doing this. i will be getting some pics up soon too.</end quote></div>

I don't think a longer shock would do anything to the bearings. Your chain might be a little looser and you might be a little more white-knuckled going down hills and have a bit more trouble doing donuts.... But probably not the bearings.

If you have to rotate your axle carrier to tighten the chain, its and 85, 86. If you have to slide the axle back to tighten the chain, its a 87, 88. I'm almost positive they will all interchange.

I'll dig out my pics of the a-arms I did last yr and post them.

 

First, cut off the ends of the arms as straight as possible. I used a hack saw and lots of patience. Then I heat treated some Ford 460 wrist pins (what's stronger than that?). Then I clamped everything to the angle iron like in the pic and welded.



I forgot how I did the other one, apparently I didn't take a pic of it either. But it has to be straight somehow. I know in the end, I used a scissor jack to spread the ends to fit just perfect. A press can be used if you spread too far, but not everybody has a press. Maybe a car or truck is heavy enough, I don't know.



Then I sanded some washers down to fit the a-arm ends in the frame snuggly. Then I welded the arm to the ends.



Viola!



Remount it back and ready for welding the gussets. I used thin angle iron for the gussets and flatstock for gusset covers.



All painted up and looking pretty.



I wish it was really this easy. Keeping everything straight is the hard part. If one arm is more forward than the other, the quad won't track right and will pull to one side. A press and scissor jack can correct some welding distortion, but its best to be near perfect right after welding. Taking lots of time setting up and clamping is key to a good welding.

Btw, the 86 and 87 arms have different bearing styles. The 86 uses heim joints and the 87 needle bearings. They both will fit in the same frame though. Just so you know what you have when you order replacement bearings. You can't change bearing styles.... I've tried.

 

Dang, you remind me so much of my friend I am going riding with (and the guy that finished the turd) except you have more patience with us idiots![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

Tell you what Randall, you could have a future in teaching, whether you want to or not.... Too bad we pay the administrators more than the teachers....

Common sense 101, pull yer head out 201, just say screw it and do it 303!!!

Thanks again man! You make what little of my brain is left stay active![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

I was always a good tutor in school. I could teach anybody anything,,, so long as I understood it. Back then, I was planning to spend my retirement yrs teaching. Now days, I don't plan anything. Who knows... The thing that scares me with kids are the goofy regulations that I have to watch what I say n that or **** off the administration or the parents. I **** everybody off everywhere usually, so it wouldn't be a shock to have lots of trouble teaching. I'm not smart enough to teach college kids (er, not versed enough on one subject... let's put it that way).

 

Hey guys whats goin on?

Newbie here needing a little help with my 230 i just picked up. The previous owner of the bike just had a ton of work done to it and had it runnin perfect. Well the seal on left side engine cover was leaking just a little bit so he replaced the seal. Well when he was tightening it down he cracked the cover. So he went and bought a new one for and a new seal. Well after he put it on it wont get fire for some reason.

He talked to a friend of his and he said that the magneto may be too close to the flywheel and grounding out. That guy also said that this could be fixed by sanding it down a bit. I haven't taken the cover off yet to see what it looks like in there, but I figure if thats whats going on (grounding out) that there should be an adjustment on there for it. Maybe it just needs to be reset to match the new cover.

Am I on the right track? Any advice for a squid [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img]?

 

Wow, I have not a clue on yer question, but I can't watch yer avitar or what ever it is called!!![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-disgusted.gif[/img] Crazy, considering there are very few bones I have not broken, and am a tattoed freak, but the piercing thing trips me out!

You will have a usefull answer soon, I am sure, but I can't provide it sorry!

 

Try reversing the wires on the coil that is inside the magneto cover. Not the lighting coil, but the other one. I had the same kinda problem on mine. I bought a new coil and installed it and got no spark. I checked everything with a VOM and everything seemed fine. Then, I read the instructions,,, lol... At the bottom it said to reverse the wires if no spark. Do that before calling customer service.

I don't know anything about the magneto being too close. I don't think there is an adjustment. But, I never had the magneto off the cover, so I can't say for sure. Remember to use red locktite on ALL screws inside the cover. They can come off and cause a more painful sight inside your engine than your avatar.

 

Wow been crazy round here. I bought a 1976 Starcraft Starlette XL Pop-up camper and then I turned around and bought a 2006 F250 Superduty 4x4. Anywho I hope to get the motor on the quad completely assembled today and if things calm down have it running by this weekend.

 

ok....my uncle just got a lt230 and rebuilt it itruns good but wont idle...
i was hoping yall could guid me to a spec sheet... i raced it this weekend (with 25" tires in the rear) and was very impressed it was faster then my 250ex....while i was racing against other 250exs and 2-stroke 90s i was winning and it a table top and broke the rear shock bolt....sucked.
my uncle liked my ridingand it happened to be my b-day so he gave me his 230.
we are going to fix it up..
why does a 1986 230 with 25" tires go faster and jump better then a 250ex and all the other 250s?
just comes to show how cheap manufacture are today.

 

The new 250's suck. The 250ex is shaft drive, has a tiny little carb, and is geared and setup for inexperienced riders. Its not really even considered a sport quad in my book. But, the 250ex does outrun the LTZ250. Not sure why except that the LTZ has a super long stroke and a big carb. Anyway, all the new 250s suck,,, except maybe the new 250 raptor. I don't know much about it yet, but what I do know looks good.

If you run into an old Honda 250x, you'll be left in the dust. Or a mojave from that time period.

I wouldn't run 25's on my sport if you paid me. 20's are big enough and I've even thought about 18s for a while. IF it wasn't so rocky around here I might give it a shot. 25's are just too big n heavy and you will lose HP, stress the axle unneededly, it raises the center of gravity, and you end up having the back higher than the front (the opposite of what you'd want). There is just no advantage to having 25's unless you go mudding on it. The fact that you beat 250ex's just goes to show how much of a dog the 250ex is. A 230 with 20's would whomp on you with your 25's.

Clean and tune the carb to make it idle. Not sure what spec sheet you want. If the needle has a big wear spot in it, that can make it not want to idle right.