<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: BigMc

hey pg.

What kinda plans u got for the "external powered" 230? You got a self powered plan in the works?</end quote></div>


Flintstone power for now![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-frown.gif[/img]

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: PoolGod230

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: BigMc



hey pg.



What kinda plans u got for the "external powered" 230? You got a self powered plan in the works?</end quote></div>





Flintstone power for now![img][/img]</end quote></div>

Put ya a rocket on it: http://www.albaaction.com/video/rocket3-record.htm [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img]

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: JustRandy

I can't afford works shocks as of yet.



The only shocks listed for the 230 by Works are the base-line AT-series. There is a choice of single rate or dual rate spring and rezzy or no rezzy. All shocks come "upside-down" for less undamped weight. There doesn't appear to be any adjustments other than spring pre-load. Prices range from $445 to $659 plus SH n whatever. http://www.worksperformance.com/pdf/app_guide/atv.pdf



Here's a pic of the $659 shocks: http://www.worksperformance.co..._steelers_drs_rez.html



Here's the $445 shocks: http://www.worksperformance.co...r_at_steelers_drs.html



These would be cool: http://www.worksperformance.co...eries_4_dual_line.html [img][/img] Those will set you back about $1500.



Works also has +2 a-arms that sell for $800 and, of course, aren't available for the 230. http://www.worksperformance.co..._products_a-arms4.html



Here's a shot of the 230 shocks compared to the 250 shocks:







The 250's are lightyears better than the 230's. And I picked up 2 sets on ebay for $40! The 250's have dual rate springs and a simple absorber with no adjustments other than pre-load. I can't bottom them and they are soft enough that I can run over a wood pallet and not feel it until the back wheel hits. I'm sure the Works are better, but are they $600 better??? Maybe one day I'll have enough money to find out. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]</end quote></div>

We have talked about shocks many times before, if the 250 shocks are dual rate, I know they they are awesome!!! Cheap dual rate is a billion times better than stock any day!

I am having de ja vue again.......take two or three different springs, cut them up, put them on the same "shock" and you will have close to the same thing bigmc and I have paid for!

As for the prices you have seen for works shox, maybe for brand new, those are correct, but I have never spent more than a $100 per shock. have 3 sets 230 fronts, 2 230 backs. my big score was triple rate with rezi fronts for my 400ex I forget how much I paid, but it is worth every penny. dual rate is badass but triple is beyond words!!!

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: PoolGod230We have talked about shocks many times before, if the 250 shocks are dual rate, I know they they are awesome!!! Cheap dual rate is a billion times better than stock any day!



I am having de ja vue again.......take two or three different springs, cut them up, put them on the same "shock" and you will have close to the same thing bigmc and I have paid for!



As for the prices you have seen for works shox, maybe for brand new, those are correct, but I have never spent more than a $100 per shock. have 3 sets 230 fronts, 2 230 backs. my big score was triple rate with rezi fronts for my 400ex I forget how much I paid, but it is worth every penny. dual rate is badass but triple is beyond words!!!</end quote></div>

Oh man... $200 for a set of fronts I could probably manage. Especially if they have the external rezzies!

The works are better because they're upside down. That means less weight that goes up n down with the wheel and effectively makes the wheel lighter. Plus, I'm sure they have some special valving... maybe even custom. You might be able to order them with the ACR (adjustable compression rate). Its hard for me to pay top dollar unless I can tinker with it. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

The Lakota has some pretty good shocks too. One day we had the Warrior, Lakota, and the QS out and the conversation turned to shocks. It didn't take long till I was bouncing on the front ends of all the quads. The Warrior was like jumping on the bed. I could get some decent air on the rebound! The Lakota would soak everything up and it was impossible to make it bounce. The QS was in between with my 250 shocks. The Lakotas don't look like much,,, must be something in the valving. So, it just goes to show you can't judge a book by the cover.

 

How much longer are the 250's? If a guy put 250 A-arms and shocks on the 230, would it be wider and not sit as high? If I remember a few posts ago, the 250 arms fit with a little mod to the bushing collars?

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: UGLY88

How much longer are the 250's? If a guy put 250 A-arms and shocks on the 230, would it be wider and not sit as high? If I remember a few posts ago, the 250 arms fit with a little mod to the bushing collars?</end quote></div>

They're almost 2 inches longer: http://www.worksperformance.com/pdf/app_guide/atv.pdf

It would be 2,3,4 inches wider... Can't remember exactly. My buddy took his 250 home, so I can't go out n measure. Seems like each arm was +2??

It would sit the same height. The shock top mount is the same as the 230 and the bottom mount just moves out the +2 or whatever it is. The shock is 2 inches longer, so it works out to be pretty close to 230 height, but with a better shock angle (30 degrees or so).

According to the post a few days ago, you can just cut the ends off of the bushings. If you can weld, I'd modify the frame to accept the arms. The 250 bearings are bigger n better.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: lOOtin LeNNy

hello all, this forum thread is a little slice of heaven hear on earth...i read about 30 pages or so. and will be checking this out everyday.

i got my 86 lt230s a couple of weeks ago...traded some ps2 games for it, well it didnt run and was all apart when i got it. the timing chain had jumped, so i fixed that and had it running today. while it was running i noticed some oil spurting out an empty bolt whole, i took it apart and found out that the chain must of busted the case and they jb welded it. well the it didnt work.

So i need to adjust the carb, fix the bolts(2 of them) adjust the chain and put it all back together. i need help with the chain adjustment i have a general idea of how to do it but need to know much "play" should be in the chain. </end quote></div>

Welcome aboard! [img]i/expressions/beer.gif[/img]

I don't know how much you've read, but you should know the swingarm bearings are one of, if not THE biggest problem this quad has.

What usually happens is someone over tightens the chain because the chain is worn out and they are too cheap/ignorant to buy another. (By this time, the chain has come off so many times it almost certainly has a cracked side cover). Once the chain is overly tight, the swingarm bearings crush after a jump or big bump. Once they crush or get flat spots in them, they quickly grind themselves to dust. Then it becomes impossible to keep the chain on without it being super tight.... Which ends in a cracked swingarm.

You should check your bearings and replace everything that looks worn. As far as how tight the chain should be,,,, just make sure when you bounce on the grab bar as hard as you can, the chain never gets tight.

I'd jb that hole and sand the gasket surface smooth and get a new mag cover. Tap the jb weld. If that don't work, try jb welding the mag cover on. If that don't work, you might as well get a new engine or engine case and change the guts out. But I think you can at least get the leak down to a manageable level. Between my friend and I, we have 3 230's and they all leak.

 

yeah i was going to do that with the jb weld and taping the whole.
as far as the chain i noticed that its not even on the top guide so that tells me thats its been broken and shortened before.
i still need to check the s-arm bearings tho.

 

Alright guys, here she is with the first major rounds of mods complete, let me know what you think!!







And the best thing of all is that it runs as good as it looks!! Couldn't be happier with the Supertrapp pipe, I'll be tinkering/ tuning with it when its a little warmer than 20 degrees!

 

that is one good looking quad...