I can't afford works shocks as of yet.

The only shocks listed for the 230 by Works are the base-line AT-series. There is a choice of single rate or dual rate spring and rezzy or no rezzy. All shocks come "upside-down" for less undamped weight. There doesn't appear to be any adjustments other than spring pre-load. Prices range from $445 to $659 plus SH n whatever. http://www.worksperformance.com/pdf/app_guide/atv.pdf

Here's a pic of the $659 shocks: http://www.worksperformance.co..._steelers_drs_rez.html

Here's the $445 shocks: http://www.worksperformance.co...r_at_steelers_drs.html

These would be cool: http://www.worksperformance.co...eries_4_dual_line.html [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] Those will set you back about $1500.

Works also has +2 a-arms that sell for $800 and, of course, aren't available for the 230. http://www.worksperformance.co..._products_a-arms4.html

Here's a shot of the 230 shocks compared to the 250 shocks:



The 250's are lightyears better than the 230's. And I picked up 2 sets on ebay for $40! The 250's have dual rate springs and a simple absorber with no adjustments other than pre-load. I can't bottom them and they are soft enough that I can run over a wood pallet and not feel it until the back wheel hits. I'm sure the Works are better, but are they $600 better??? Maybe one day I'll have enough money to find out. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

I guess if I had a choice of stock 230 width or wheel spacers, I'd go with the spacers (or offset rims), but only as a last resort.

When I first got the quad, I reversed my front rims by drilling a new valve stem hole and adding another valve stem. That gave me 3 more inches up front. A few months later I made up a set of +3.25 a-arms and rode like that until that last time I took the quad to the mountains. I came back with a LONG list of broken parts.... Including tierod ends. I probably had 5 or 6 trips to the mountains on those flipped rims.

Here's what the mountain trails look like:




While I had the quad down working on the swingarm and engine, I figured I'd order some zero offset (stock) rims and add the lost 3 inches to the a-arms instead. So, I went to all the trouble of hacking my a-arms back apart and welding in 1.75 inches to each just so I could get away from offset rims and still keep my width. Its a decision I don't regret. Its SO much nicer having wheels that don't want to pull to one side when I hit a rock or something. With zero offset, there is zero leverage around the balljoint axis of rotation. The more spacers you put in, the more leverage you give a rock, tree, or whatever against your handlebars. If you never hit any rocks or bumps or anything, then its probably not that big of a deal. But me, I set up the whole quad to deal with plowing over trails littered with rocks that are half the size of the front tire on average.

Another point to consider... If you order a set of Douglas rims, your front set will be stock width and the back ones will make your back end wider. The reason why I can only speculate, but I think it has something to do with safety. Why would Douglas not offer an offset rim for the front? Lawsuits maybe??? All they have is 2+3 and 2+4... Either way, only 2 inches stick out past the lug nuts and the center of the tire intersects the center of the balljoints for an overall zero offset.

 

Hey Randy, on your A-arm build what pointer would you give to me if I wanted to try it with my new found set? Such as how did you keep everything lined up in the correct locations? I see one sid eof the arm is straight, can I just add my width to that keeping it straight and then cut and re-angle the front side of the arm while it is bolted up to the frame?

 

The first thing you need to do is make sure your frame is straight! That's something I didn't do the first time around.

Here how I did it:



That one striaght a-arm, yeah, you can just clamp a piece of angle iron on it and clamp a tube and butt weld.

When you cut the ends off, cut as straight as you can. It makes things easier when you weld it back on. I took my time with a hacksaw because I don't have any machines I could chuck it in to get a straight cut.

Weld the tube to the arms first. Then bolt the bearings on the frame. Then weld the longer arms to the bearings you have already on the frame and eyeball/measure as you go. If you get everything within 1/8-1/4 inch error, I don't think you'll notice it on the trail. Your frame is likely bent that much anyway.

Camber is one thing you'll want to keep an eye on too. Its hard to do with the wheel off. That's one mistake I have to correct that I've been too lazy to so far. One wheel has a lot more camber than the other.

Caster should be easy to eyeball up.

I'll post some pics later on.

 

Ok, So it is pretty much double check and make up as you go. Gotcha ya.

WHy was your frame bent? Why would my frame be bent?

 

Frame might be bent from clipping a tree (a likely event in 20yrs) or even something as simple as factory tolerances. The a-arms are probably bent too. You'll notice the a-arms aren't welded up exactly like each other when you go to cut them apart.

 

Gotcha ya. Well, I am going to get started as soon as I can, but the house sale issues and cold weather are working against me.

Has anybody done anythign to strengthen the foot pegs? I believe I asked this before with out much response.

 

hello all, this forum thread is a little slice of heaven hear on earth...i read about 30 pages or so. and will be checking this out everyday.
i got my 86 lt230s a couple of weeks ago...traded some ps2 games for it, well it didnt run and was all apart when i got it. the timing chain had jumped, so i fixed that and had it running today. while it was running i noticed some oil spurting out an empty bolt whole, i took it apart and found out that the chain must of busted the case and they jb welded it. well the it didnt work.




yes it has milk crates for front tires. it didnt come with front tires...just rims lol


So i need to adjust the carb, fix the bolts(2 of them) adjust the chain and put it all back together. i need help with the chain adjustment i have a general idea of how to do it but need to know much "play" should be in the chain.

but its got new plastic!!

 

Good find and welcome!

I believe they call for 1" of total slack?

 

if the chain has already smacked the case, I'd check to make sure the chain doesn't need to be replaced, I would also check and see if there is any play in the swingarm as the swingarm bearings may need to be replaced as well.
as far as the case goes, jb weld might hold it for a while but you might also check your local welding shops.