You should be able to turn the starter with a battery and a couple wires. Ground one out and touch the positive to the solenoid. That will help rule out a bad starter. The magneto shouldn't click. I'm not 100% familiar with the workings of the magneto so I can't get to into detail. It's a shame you don't live out here by me. I have days off with nothing to do. I could have it up and running for you and then you will have no need to want to set fire to it.

 

I have an LTZ50 and you can make it run much better but be ready to spend some money. First thing is the spacer in the clutch, made it go faster (mph) but didn't help the power or rev issues. The next is a CDI unit with adjustable rev limiter (approx 200USD). These two mods alone make a vast improvement. If you want to sink WAY more money into it, buy the pipe / KN filter for about 400 USD.

CT racing offers all this and a better clutch mod than just removing the spacer, they make it so the clutch doesn't ingage until the rpms are higher - gets out of sand much easier...

here are the links and info:

http://www.ctracing.com/new_page_3.htm


Check the video of the kid riding a fully modified version, you'll see the difference.

 

Lowlife, I'm surprised you guys didn't clue me in to this. I traced the click down to the rear clutch. I spun the clutch maybe 1 inch and checked the starter and it turns fine. The good thing is that the CDI is O.K. Something in there ties the starter wiring to the cluct. I put in the pinion and it turns fine. Then I assembled up to the point of installing the starter cup (for the recoil). ALL THE PARTS MANUALS ARE WRONG.
They show the nut and washer on the shaft immediately against the face plate sprocket. If you check the recoil starter in the parts list, it does not show any nut or washer. I realized that the washer and nut must go on after the recoil starter cup not against the sprocket plate. I sent another longer post describing all the part number items to you. Now I should be able to get it running. I ordered the gasket for the CVT cover. (probably didn't really need it.) Also I couldn't figure out how to get the face plate (sprocket) installed because the belt was too wide. I got angry and jerked on the belt and the rear clutch contracted which allowed the belt to become longer and then I could assemble the parts. I get it now. I do not have an air gun and am afraid to put it together and have the nut come off again. Somehow I need to hold the shaft so it doesn't turn when I tighten the nut. Does anyone know what the torque should be on the nut?

 

I saw in the wiring harness that the extra wire is not connected to anything.

 

EDC702, Thanks for the great photos. They helped me see how to install the parts. The parts list on line are wrong. They show the nut and washer on the outside of the clutch sprocket. That includes the parts list for the recoil starter and also the transmission 1 list. I was wondering how to install the starter cup. Then I realized the nut and washer go on the outside of the starter cup.
I was told I could not attach photos directly to the post. But you did. How'd you do it?

 

Dan6995 I'm glad you were able to get it back to good. Like I said, it's been awhile so I need to shake out the cobb webbs sometimes. My buddy is getting anxious about getting his daughters bike running better. I'll make sure to take photo's along the way and post everything we do. Just an idea but worth a try, if you can't tighten down the bolt on your own, bring the bike to a local auto shop and see if they will do it. It will only take about a minute of their time. Bring your kid with you for the simpathy plea;^)

 

still no talk of big power gains huh ?!? is anyones bike moving faster than 26mph ??????????????

 

Lowlife, I took the magneto cover off, put a socket on that side of the shaft, then tightened the nut on the recoil side. I also put some threadlock on the shaft so it wouldn't work loose. It starts with the first click of the starter, and with the slightest pull on the recoil rope. So it seems to start better now then before. All I've done so far is to remove 3 rollers from the clutch. I don't see why that would make it start better but it does. However when my son takes it up our steep driveway it cuts out. I'm not sure I understand the modification of the spark arrestor. I wish I could see some close up photos of that. Do you think if that was modified, and nothing else, we would see any difference? It sounds like if I put on a K&N filter that in itself wouldn't be enough. I hate to spend more money on the CDI and new exhaust yet, because we are thinking we might just sell it. I've got $1200 in it with the new starter and recoil. It looks like new but evidently they are not in demand around here. I am going to give you my email address in case you want to send some photos. Thanks for the help! (dan6995@comcast.net)

 

Dan,
Removing three of the clutch roller wieghts changes the engagement of the clutch. It allows the clutch to hook up quicker but will not allow it to spin at a higher rpm. The outcome means more lowend punch and less top end speed. When you say the bike cuts out when going up the driveway, do you mean it dies? If so is it due to fuel starvation ie. stuttering or is it slowing down to a stop due to the hill? To help with you other question, by pulling out the exhaust restrictor and opening up the mufler area via removal of the spark arrestor, will allow the engine to outgas faster. By installing an airfilter and case breather (don't forget about the case line to the stock air filter) it will allow the engine to breath better. The bike will still only run as fast as the rev limiter will allow (CDI box). You don't need to purchase an exhaust to make it run faster. EdKatt can attest to that. Try this, remove the exhaust restrictors (one at the head and the pipe connection the other the spark arrestor). Install the aftermarket air filter and case breather and up your main jet one size. That should give you a pretty good bump for a fairly low cost. The CDI box upgrade will be key for higher rev's. www.badboyzdiscountparts will give you the best price for a Dynatek CDI box. Just a quick side note, regardless of what bike you buy, you're more than likely going to have to upgrade it to get it to where you want it to run at. My youngest son's new Can-Am DS90x went through all the same things I did to his old LTZ50. I think the manufacturers are afraid of lawsuits so they underpower the bikes to avoid issues.

 

Lowlife,
Thanks again for the reply. When my son drives the ATV up the driveway, it does not die. I can't really tell if it even slows down. It just sounds like it's running rough and cutting out. Maybe it's the rpm limiter. I checked and there is not a washer/restrictor in the exhaust at the engine. There is only an exhaust gasket (flush with the outside of the engine). I tried removing the spark arrestor and do not see any difference at all. The exhaust pipe is too small. Doesn't the aftermarket exhaust have a much larger pipe?Where's the information for the case breather? I also remember comments about the "air box". What's that?