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LT250R Overhaul Project

Old Sep 11, 2010 | 11:52 PM
  #61  
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chewed the washer up didn't it?
 
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Old Sep 12, 2010 | 12:24 AM
  #62  
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The exhaust leaks all over the inside of the rear fenders, it's missing a boot of some sort as the front pipe has. I am going to try a pipe clamp and some muffler sealer
I'd rethink that. flexibility is a good thing since the motor vibrates.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2010 | 10:28 AM
  #63  
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what i did to mine was got some silicone tubing with the inside diameter the same as the OD of the pipe and cut it to about 4 inches and put the joint in the middle of the tube and clamped the ends. it allows it to flex and is way better than the stock slip joint
 
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Old Sep 12, 2010 | 07:23 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by NewportHillClimber
what i did to mine was got some silicone tubing with the inside diameter the same as the OD of the pipe and cut it to about 4 inches and put the joint in the middle of the tube and clamped the ends. it allows it to flex and is way better than the stock slip joint
Silicone you say huh? I'm going to look into that.

Originally Posted by DuneDragin
chewed the washer up didn't it?
Actually the washer was still there and very thick. I'm not sure if ALL those shavings are from the nuts edges though. I bought a star shaped lock washer that was a shy too small that I was going to put between the washer and nut. The diagram has two part numbers for that washer (one is a washer one is a lock washer) so I'm not sure it means to use both at the same time I'm pretty sure its either one or the other because there is only one piece in the assembly there. So I cleaned the threads with some carb cleaner and qtips then applied a lot of threadtite!

On my reassembly I ran into a problem, I figured between 7-9 foot lbs of torq on the clutch presure plate bolts, so I push into the 8 zone. Well 1 of the bolts snapped @ 8lbs! I couldn't apply 9 if I wanted to so? Can anyone tell me if the tighter the pressure plate is the less play you have when engaging/releasing the clutch?

Did I mention I hate fillips head screws!? I replaced the ones I removed with these sleek/slim looking allen wrench head bolts, not to mention their shiny!
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Old Sep 13, 2010 | 03:32 PM
  #65  
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the pressure plate isnt held to pressure by the clutch plate bolts. its the clutch springs that do that. all you gotta do is torque the bolts to stop then a 1/4 turn and thats good. but i would install heavy duty clutch for ten bucks from rocky mountain or dennis kirk.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2010 | 05:40 PM
  #66  
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Cool Ohhhh Yeahhhh (like the kool-aid man says)

Originally Posted by NewportHillClimber
the pressure plate isnt held to pressure by the clutch plate bolts. its the clutch springs that do that. all you gotta do is torque the bolts to stop then a 1/4 turn and thats good. but i would install heavy duty clutch for ten bucks from rocky mountain or dennis kirk.
10 bucks?! You mean $10 per fiber or the whole kit for $10?

Today was my first successful ride to the pits and back home with no problems!

It's scary, I mean I am 20 years old and I look about 15 years old haha I weigh about 115lbs, so all it takes is a little bit of RPMs and a side to side motion with my body and those rear tires just hydroplane across the top of gravel or dirt.

Still needs work but I rode it as is like this this afternoon, I've been burning 93 octane Shell V-Power gasoline at around 30:1 with StarTron enzyme fuel treatment as well.

Here is a video of the machine idling on it's own after I put it back together again (the gears don't sound too loud do they?):
YouTube - LT250R Idle & Rev
 
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 07:55 PM
  #67  
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You have got to be kidding me right, this god damn hill billy. Something was fishy about the coolant, remember me joking about kool-aid? The aroma made me test it, man kind is born to test things right? SWEAR TO GOD this is either mountain dew or yellow sugar water, I'm not even kidding you the inside of the radiator has a layer of white residue on it. I flushed it with water several times and replaced it with Prestone 50/50, this scared me so much I immediately drained the oil, for the second time only I asked around on what the hell it is. A few mechanics and AutoZone all told me they think it was DIFFERENTIAL FLUID! Its dark dark dark red/purple and has a smell, a smelly smell that smells if you know what I mean, it doesn't leave your hands I needed to break out the petrulli soap. So I read the manual and it says use 20W-40, everyone at the auto stores kinda scratched their head, so I called "Central Mass Power Sports" formerly Sky Cycle some idiot told me use straight 80w gear oil which made no sense to me so I called up "Cycle Design" and some guy said don't listen to him use 20w-50 because we have made technical breakthroughs since 1986 in the oil industry and its been replaced with 20w-50 which made more sense to me being within that hot cold rating of the stock oil. SO to make a long story even longer I bought 2 quarts of Valvoline SAE 20w-50 full synthetic, filled it with this much better and much thinner oil and I **** you knot the damn thing idles smoother (I prefer a very low idle) so it was smoother at a low RPM. Ripped it down to the sand dunes and beat on it for at least a good hour straight there and then rode it home with no problems, since it was hot I immediately drained all the oil which was already dark as **** and used that second quart I bought (the first one was just a flush after 1 ride) I'm sure this thing is very happy it has a owner that cares so much about it



And another thing, my exhaust header is kinda funky it leaks black residue down the motor and the down tube on the frame that your fender bracket is bolted on. It's not the crush washer, but it must be missing something, it has 1 loop for springs with 2 springs on it I have seen others with two loops for a spring on each side. It slips on over a sleeve of some sort that is bolted to the header and it leaks if you follow the red on the picture I poorly made:
 
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 07:01 PM
  #68  
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sorry that was heavy duty clutch springs for ten bucks........ the cheapest clutch is about 50 but as much as you weigh youll probably never notice it slipping if it ever does. and i ran 10w40 castrol in mine with no problem and there should be 2 pipe springs. one on top and bottom
 
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 08:45 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by NewportHillClimber
sorry that was heavy duty clutch springs for ten bucks........ the cheapest clutch is about 50 but as much as you weigh youll probably never notice it slipping if it ever does. and i ran 10w40 castrol in mine with no problem and there should be 2 pipe springs. one on top and bottom
I'm satisfied with the clutch and I have a whole spare one to burn out before I buy aftermarket. I could use some reeds and other work first. Then I am missing a spring mount on both the pipe and header including the spare header on the spare engine also has just 1 ring for a spring it's really confusing and getting aggravating Gunking the motor down after every ride. Also the intake leaks raw fuel where it connects to the reed valve housing and the clamp is already too small for the hose so it can't go any tighter.

THIS THING IS DANGEROUS my buddie was sitting parked on his Warrior so I decided to get a sideways donut going around him in some sand and rocks. I made it around him about 4-5 times and I started tipping as if I was going to roll over so I put my foot down like an idiot (in loose sneakers keep in mind) and ran over my ankle smashing my shin bone into the foot peg its pretty deep. I have tire burn up my calcaneal tendon, my shoe went flying into the woods and almost broke my leg, lets just say I learnt my lesson.

On a positive note I returned to my old neighborhood sand dunes and climbed every single hill I could never make it up as a kid without a single problem. I even roosted a few 4 strokes out there on this steep hill that you coulden't get any speed for and you could tell hasn't been climbed since the 2 stroke generation. Ripped up it with no problem just got to make sure you hit powerban before you get too far up the hill I guess so a starting stretch is not needed.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 09:40 PM
  #70  
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Ordered a new grab bar off ebay for $25 including shipping. My old one is bent horribly and this new one someone welded on fender supports that I was missing. It's also more shiny and seems to be lighter even with the added supports??

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