LT80 and others, I appreciate your posts and insight. I have been digging up as many LT80 related old post and man are they helpful. Again, appreciate the time you all spend to add to this forum.

Just picked up an lt 80. Not sure what year, owner thought it was a 99 or 2000. Has been sitting for 2 years and dirty but in overall good shape. Can tell it has not been beat on. Every wiring harness, zip tie, ect is untouched. Air filter was filthy. Case oil looked good. Very little metal from what I saw. Fuel is varnished. Have all the plastics off and will get them cleaned up. Chain/sprocket is rusted and will get that cleaned up tonight.

So far I pulled the petcock and cleaned it. Was all gummed up, now runs freely on prime. Added an inline fuel filter. Cleaned tank. Pulled carb apart, small jet was plugged, but got it all cleaned up. Greased the front end. Aired tires up and they seem to be holding. Battery is junk so cant crank at this point. Changed oil with 50 ml of 10W-40. New NGK plug. Rear end had a bit of side to side movement, tightend the double nuts on the left side and solved that issue. Front end is tight and seems to be no issues.

Ordered:
front brake lever, old one was broke off.
uni air filter
Battery
coil starter
Front brake adjuster nuts and other specialty factory odds and ends


Here are my questions:
How do I figure out what year this thing is?
Is 10-40 correct weight? 50 ml is what case says to add.
Is there a gear that I can pull off to disable the auto oiler? I will premix.
Going to run Motul 32:1 synthetic. That correct mixture?
Stock plug sufficient? I know in my old KX I ran one plug hotter than stock.
What else should i take a look at prior to firing it up?

 

Look for the serial number on the cross piece that the front shocks attatch to.:::
J-88
K-89
L-90
91-01-M/N/P/R/S/T/V/W/X/Y/K1
02-K2
03-K3
04-K4
05-K5
06-K6

10-40 is OK. I've come around and starting putting in gear oil.
Oiler: I prefer to pull the sidecover and take off the lil plastic piece that drives the pump from the end of the crankshaft. You need to get in there to do clutch maint. anyways (IMO).
32:1 is good.
Stock plug is fine BRP7HS. If you want to get fancy, put out 10-12 bucks for a BR8HIX.
Sounds like you got things under control. Good job!

 

Thanks LT. No surprise you responded. Again, appreciate you taking your time to share your knowledge and experience with the rest of us. If your ever on the Coast of NC, I owe you a few refreshments of your choosing.

lm4ac1133211..... Do I use the L or M that starts the vin. Isnt the year burried somewhere in those first 12 letters. I omitted the last 5 digits.

Did a search for pulling the clutch/basket and checking. No idea what its formally called on these. Found people talking about it, but no how to. Is there a how to? Have pulled a few on our old bikes (KX250, etc.) Never a CVT type though. Any secrets. I would be happy to snap a handful of pics to document the process for others if that would help and there isn't one.

I have some royal purple 80W90 gear oil. Better choice than 10-40? Only takes a minute to drain and add.

Million $$$$ question is will the darn thing start? Coil starter will be here early next week.

 

Found rear clutch info below. Seems pretty straight forward.

http://forums.atvconnection.com/kids...-any-tips.html

Should the rear be pulled apart an inspected? If so, what should I look for and service/lube/etc.

Front clutch is my concern. Variator and other terms are new to me. Sounds like the grease gets hard and rollers wear out..... and so on. At this point feel like if I pulled it apart not sure what exaclty I am looking for.

Thanks again.

 

You can go to::Ohio Motorcycle ATV Dealer - North Ridge Yamaha Suzuki - Geneva, OH - Scooter Utility-vehicle, snowmobile
Or other dealer sites and look at the parts fiche. FYI: front and rear clutchs are transmission #1 and transmission #2. I'm sure you can look and understand the parts and their order.
Rear clutch: Look for pad wear. They do last forever. Scuff them with 80# with lil circiular motions to break the glaze. Only sand the black patch.
You'll need to check the rear clutch bearings. They go bad.
Year: The manual don't explain that exactly. For what it's worth, there were litttle changes. ie: chain/sprocket pitch's, and the CDI/coil's changed from 1 thing to go bad to 2 things to go bad..LOL
We're here to help..Dive in.

 

LT
Think I am good. You have answered all my questions. I going to work on the assumtion it is a 2000 model.

Will post questions as I tear into it. Will spend time sunday removing the auto oiler gear from the crank and inspect the front cluth.

 

LT sent you a pic to your email in your signature. Have the side case off. Not sure what the next step is. Have the small plastic gear off for the auto oiler.... slid right off.

 

Got all my parts and wont start. I do not have the front brake lever hooked up, need the equalizer piece...did not realize its a 2 pc. handle. Does front brake have to be engaged to get it to start?

It acted early on like it wanted to start but now is just fouling plug. Cranks fine with battery and pull start. Pulled plug and grounded it and am getting spark. Checked plug and spark with key off using pull start, on/off switch, and rear brake off on. All switches seem to be doing their job as I only get spark when they are all engaged or in the on position.

Got fuel and spark. What am I missing. Poured a small amount of fuel in cylinder and changed nothing.

I have not done a compression check.

I cleaned the carb prior to parts arriving. Petcock was full of varnish. Small jet was completely plugged. On prime, fuel flows good when you pull the line.

I also bypassed the oil pump by pulling the black plastic gear off the end of the crank. I did not unhook the pump line from the carb.

Ideas?

 

"I have not done a compression check"
We need to know this now.
You've done a great job eliminating many aspects of the switchs/etc.
Oil line to carb. You can get a lil vac cap at the auto parts store or cut the injection line in 1/2 and stick a piece of toothpick in the line.
This isn't the issue tho.
OK, how about a plugged pipe? Bad plug (tried a new plug?).
Maybe try hand choking it. Take the rubber snorkle off the carb and use 2 fingers to choke it. I got 2 chips and I'm all in on this guess.

 

Hand choked, no go.

Have 2 plugs. Fouled both. Took a lighter to both to dry them out.

Not sure on plugged pipe. Assume pull it from the head and take a look. Is there a restrictor ring?

Again, appreciate your help.

May pull carb off again and clean it one more time. Could small jet be plugged?