I'm guessing that you twist a cpl wires together.

 

yeah the tether plug makes it continuous so I'll hook the two wires together.

I got hit most of the engine put together and noticed some drastic. The new belt is twice as thick as the old one. No wonder the clutches would engage.

I shoukd have it all together and running today. I'll let you know.

 

So it's off and running. It's a little loud in the drive gear box but I expected that. I'll fix that eventually.

It has an idle speed screw and an air/fuel screw. I started at 1 turn out on idle and 2 turns out on air/fuel screw. Do you have any thoughts on this?

It still has some slight white smoke. This might be from the oil in cylinder from installing piston and rings.

Im surprised at how much less power and speed it has compared to our 2016 Kawasaki kfx50. When I get on the Suzuki and try to ride it it bogs down and dies. The Kawasaki will carry me and go pretty fast.

Is is it normal for this Suzuki not to carry an adult?

Here are some videos.

 

Blistering fast for a Z50.
Biggest waste of time Suzuki ever made. Next to the Z90 that is.
Even tho a slug can go faster, I hope you make the kids wear boots and a helmet.

 

LT80,

Thank you so much for all your help. My kids had a blast Memorial Day weekend. Ran three tanks of gas through it. I'm saving up for new drive gears (to go in my new case that showed up Monday) and chain and sprockets. Once again I really appreciate your help on this.

 

Glad they had fun!

 

Well I am back again but really stumped this time. I am having a starter issue.

The ltz-50 runs great when pull started, but I cannot get anything but a click when I hit the start button.

Here is what I have done: Battery fully charged (13.4v), new starter relay (also tested the old one and both are good), brand new starter motor.

One thing I have noticed is that the wires from the starter relay and the wire from the white starter motor connector are warm after hitting the starter button a few times.

Any ideas?

 

I checked the voltage at battery and it is good. When starter button is pressed there is the same voltage at the starter relay connector. I have continuity from the + cable to the + red wire at the starter relay connector. With the starter relay connected I have continuity to the white connector above engine that connects to the starter motor red/black wire. I also have 12.3 volts at that connector when the start button is pressed. The on/off switch, start button and saftety brake switch all have continuity between connectors from front to back. It makes no sense

 

Bad earth or bad new starter. I always reach for the 12v test lamp when starter problems come up. One wire onto starter live post, one onto battery neg. Switch on, press start button, if solenoid clicks and lamp doesn't light, faulty solenoid. If lamp lights but starter doesn't turn, faulty starter. Just to check it isn't the earth, connect the wire you had on battery neg, to starter motor case and test again. If it doesn't light this time, you have a bad earth.

 

I don't have a test light but I measured voltage in both situations you mentioned above. I got 6.4V when I conducted each of the test you mentioned above. Any more ideas?