Winch Mounting - The Higher the Better?
. How long would it take you to do it again, now that you got it figured out?
#22
03-05-2000 | 12:51 PM
Thread Starter
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Trailblazer
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Foreman4x4,
Thanks for the input. I ordered the roller fairlead (thought it was coming with the winch). It came in Friday, but I forgot to go pick it up. It will be on by Tuesday.
I did notice that when I pull the cable up tight when hooking on the front rack, it does rub a little on the edge of the upper bar of the bumper. I will update pictures when it is on.
Yammer_Hummer
Thanks for the input. I ordered the roller fairlead (thought it was coming with the winch). It came in Friday, but I forgot to go pick it up. It will be on by Tuesday.
I did notice that when I pull the cable up tight when hooking on the front rack, it does rub a little on the edge of the upper bar of the bumper. I will update pictures when it is on.
Yammer_Hummer
#23
03-05-2000 | 09:17 PM
Thread Starter
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Trailblazer
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
TxDoc2,
Didn't see your reply earlier, I didn't notice there was a second page. As always, the prototype takes much longer. The mounting plate itself took about 10 minutes for my good friend Sam to cut with his torch. I spent 10 grinding, and another 15 to mark and drill the holes for the winch mounting and for the frame mounts. Another 15 to cut the pieces of C-channel for what I called the mounting dogs, and 10 to weld them together. The hardest part was getting the winch mounted onto the plate after it was mounted to the frame, as the bolts were hard to reach from the top.
Most of my time was spent designing, making and welding the new front bumper plate.
I have to go, maybe more later.
Yammer_Hummer
Didn't see your reply earlier, I didn't notice there was a second page. As always, the prototype takes much longer. The mounting plate itself took about 10 minutes for my good friend Sam to cut with his torch. I spent 10 grinding, and another 15 to mark and drill the holes for the winch mounting and for the frame mounts. Another 15 to cut the pieces of C-channel for what I called the mounting dogs, and 10 to weld them together. The hardest part was getting the winch mounted onto the plate after it was mounted to the frame, as the bolts were hard to reach from the top.
Most of my time was spent designing, making and welding the new front bumper plate.
I have to go, maybe more later.
Yammer_Hummer
#24
03-06-2000 | 12:40 AM
Thread Starter
|
Trailblazer
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
TxDoc2,
I was going to include more earlier about this mounting without rebuilding the front bumper. For my mounting, the fairlead became an integral part of, and therefore is supported by, the bumper frame that is welded to the original 1.5" tubing. It will be obvious to anyone who owns a Grizzly or who has looked at one in detail, that the fairlead cannot be supported by the OEM sheetmetal in the front center of the bumper assembly by itself under a heavy pull. I am confident the winch can be mounted the same without rebuilding the bumper. My original winch mounting came with a 3/16"(?) metal plate to mount the fairlead. It is pre-drilled with 4 holes that match the 4 holes for the winch mounting bolts. If the winch is positioned correctly front to back, the 2 front winch mounting bolts can be used as the 2 back holes for the fairlead mounting plate. If the setback is correct, the vertical portion of this plate will be flush with the back of the sheetmetal. Holes can be drilled in the sheetmetal (or the bolts may not fall on sheetmetal, but in the open oval sections. I had ripped off the sheetmetal before making this observation). The fairlead can be mounted against the front side of the sheetmetal. Essentially, the sheetmetal can be sandwiched between the fairlead mounting plate and the fairlead itself. This will provide a more rigid support for the fairlead, the fairlead will extend beyond the bumper, fender etc for side pulls, while allowing the original bumper and sheetmetal to remain. I started to go this route, then decided to rebuild the bumper after spending 15 minutes trying to straighten the sheetmetal from the beating it took during the first 10 miles of it's life.
I no this was long, but I thought it might be a consideration of anyone thinking of this type of mounting.
I hope I can be of assistance to anyone interested. Please send questions.
Yammer_Hummer
I was going to include more earlier about this mounting without rebuilding the front bumper. For my mounting, the fairlead became an integral part of, and therefore is supported by, the bumper frame that is welded to the original 1.5" tubing. It will be obvious to anyone who owns a Grizzly or who has looked at one in detail, that the fairlead cannot be supported by the OEM sheetmetal in the front center of the bumper assembly by itself under a heavy pull. I am confident the winch can be mounted the same without rebuilding the bumper. My original winch mounting came with a 3/16"(?) metal plate to mount the fairlead. It is pre-drilled with 4 holes that match the 4 holes for the winch mounting bolts. If the winch is positioned correctly front to back, the 2 front winch mounting bolts can be used as the 2 back holes for the fairlead mounting plate. If the setback is correct, the vertical portion of this plate will be flush with the back of the sheetmetal. Holes can be drilled in the sheetmetal (or the bolts may not fall on sheetmetal, but in the open oval sections. I had ripped off the sheetmetal before making this observation). The fairlead can be mounted against the front side of the sheetmetal. Essentially, the sheetmetal can be sandwiched between the fairlead mounting plate and the fairlead itself. This will provide a more rigid support for the fairlead, the fairlead will extend beyond the bumper, fender etc for side pulls, while allowing the original bumper and sheetmetal to remain. I started to go this route, then decided to rebuild the bumper after spending 15 minutes trying to straighten the sheetmetal from the beating it took during the first 10 miles of it's life.
I no this was long, but I thought it might be a consideration of anyone thinking of this type of mounting.
I hope I can be of assistance to anyone interested. Please send questions.
Yammer_Hummer
#25
03-27-2016 | 12:14 PM
Weekend Warrior
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Rack Mounted Winch
Tree Farmer,
Thanks for the input. I hope to use my winch more to help other people out, as I often go riding on private property with friends and family. Before my Grizzly, I rode one of my 2 Kawie Bayou 220's. In the beginning, everybody had similar machines (Suzuki 250, Beartracker 250...) Then upgrades started, now Polaris 4x4, Suzuki 500 4x4... I was pulled out time after time trying to keep up with the 4x4's, but nobody had a winch. We still ride with many smaller 2 wheel drives, including my son still on one of the Bayou 220's. I want to be able to return the favor and help people out when they need it. Recently the Suzuki 500 got buried, and it took 3 of us to get him out. My winch was not yet mounted.
Now, I understand the advantage of the low pull point. Here is what I plan to do. I will mount the factory mounting plate above the differential, after cutting off the portion that sticks out past the bumper. This plate will become a mounting point for a high strength tow hook, allowing me to use a ****** block. This lower pull point will help with self-extraction. It's not as good as the low mounted winch, since one half will be pulling up, and one half will still be pulling down, but it should help. Of course, I will add some additional lengths of cable to make sure I have enough reach to make up for only 25 foot reaach with a fully extended cable doubled back on itself.
Have you seen anybody use a rack-mounted winch for a heavy pull? I have once riding at Cooper Creek outside of Clinton MO, but it was before I had the Grizzly so I didn't pay close attention to exactly how it was mounted. All I know is he had it on the front of a big blue Polaris (425?) and he used it to pull my cousin up and out of slimy quagmire. It pulled out good, but it squashed down the front end pretty good and I don't think the load was that great. I should have asked more questions. My friend with the 500 Suzuki stopped to talk to a guy with a King Quad 300. He had the winch on the front rack because he said the mounting that came with the winch made it low and it stuck out. He moved it up after he kept getting hang up going over trees etc. He said it became more of a plow than a winch.
Thanks for the input.
Yammer_Hummer
2000 Grizzly still stock to the bone
Thanks for the input. I hope to use my winch more to help other people out, as I often go riding on private property with friends and family. Before my Grizzly, I rode one of my 2 Kawie Bayou 220's. In the beginning, everybody had similar machines (Suzuki 250, Beartracker 250...) Then upgrades started, now Polaris 4x4, Suzuki 500 4x4... I was pulled out time after time trying to keep up with the 4x4's, but nobody had a winch. We still ride with many smaller 2 wheel drives, including my son still on one of the Bayou 220's. I want to be able to return the favor and help people out when they need it. Recently the Suzuki 500 got buried, and it took 3 of us to get him out. My winch was not yet mounted.
Now, I understand the advantage of the low pull point. Here is what I plan to do. I will mount the factory mounting plate above the differential, after cutting off the portion that sticks out past the bumper. This plate will become a mounting point for a high strength tow hook, allowing me to use a ****** block. This lower pull point will help with self-extraction. It's not as good as the low mounted winch, since one half will be pulling up, and one half will still be pulling down, but it should help. Of course, I will add some additional lengths of cable to make sure I have enough reach to make up for only 25 foot reaach with a fully extended cable doubled back on itself.
Have you seen anybody use a rack-mounted winch for a heavy pull? I have once riding at Cooper Creek outside of Clinton MO, but it was before I had the Grizzly so I didn't pay close attention to exactly how it was mounted. All I know is he had it on the front of a big blue Polaris (425?) and he used it to pull my cousin up and out of slimy quagmire. It pulled out good, but it squashed down the front end pretty good and I don't think the load was that great. I should have asked more questions. My friend with the 500 Suzuki stopped to talk to a guy with a King Quad 300. He had the winch on the front rack because he said the mounting that came with the winch made it low and it stuck out. He moved it up after he kept getting hang up going over trees etc. He said it became more of a plow than a winch.
Thanks for the input.
Yammer_Hummer
2000 Grizzly still stock to the bone
Rack Mounted Winch. It's pulled me out stuck in mud up to the fenders. I use a long tree strap to bring the ****** block closer to the pull. 3000 lb Warn winch with 1/4" 6400lb dyneema synthetic rope.got 2 ****** Blocks if needed. But haven't needed but one so far.
#26
12-27-2019 | 08:08 PM
Weekend Warrior
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
TxDoc2,
I was going to include more earlier about this mounting without rebuilding the front bumper. For my mounting, the fairlead became an integral part of, and therefore is supported by, the bumper frame that is welded to the original 1.5" tubing. It will be obvious to anyone who owns a Grizzly or who has looked at one in detail, that the fairlead cannot be supported by the OEM sheetmetal in the front center of the bumper assembly by itself under a heavy pull. I am confident the winch can be mounted the same without rebuilding the bumper. My original winch mounting came with a 3/16"(?) metal plate to mount the fairlead. It is pre-drilled with 4 holes that match the 4 holes for the winch mounting bolts. If the winch is positioned correctly front to back, the 2 front winch mounting bolts can be used as the 2 back holes for the fairlead mounting plate. If the setback is correct, the vertical portion of this plate will be flush with the back of the sheetmetal. Holes can be drilled in the sheetmetal (or the bolts may not fall on sheetmetal, but in the open oval sections. I had ripped off the sheetmetal before making this observation). The fairlead can be mounted against the front side of the sheetmetal. Essentially, the sheetmetal can be sandwiched between the fairlead mounting plate and the fairlead itself. This will provide a more rigid support for the fairlead, the fairlead will extend beyond the bumper, fender etc for side pulls, while allowing the original bumper and sheetmetal to remain. I started to go this route, then decided to rebuild the bumper after spending 15 minutes trying to straighten the sheetmetal from the beating it took during the first 10 miles of it's life.
I no this was long, but I thought it might be a consideration of anyone thinking of this type of mounting.
I hope I can be of assistance to anyone interested. Please send questions.
Yammer_Hummer
I was going to include more earlier about this mounting without rebuilding the front bumper. For my mounting, the fairlead became an integral part of, and therefore is supported by, the bumper frame that is welded to the original 1.5" tubing. It will be obvious to anyone who owns a Grizzly or who has looked at one in detail, that the fairlead cannot be supported by the OEM sheetmetal in the front center of the bumper assembly by itself under a heavy pull. I am confident the winch can be mounted the same without rebuilding the bumper. My original winch mounting came with a 3/16"(?) metal plate to mount the fairlead. It is pre-drilled with 4 holes that match the 4 holes for the winch mounting bolts. If the winch is positioned correctly front to back, the 2 front winch mounting bolts can be used as the 2 back holes for the fairlead mounting plate. If the setback is correct, the vertical portion of this plate will be flush with the back of the sheetmetal. Holes can be drilled in the sheetmetal (or the bolts may not fall on sheetmetal, but in the open oval sections. I had ripped off the sheetmetal before making this observation). The fairlead can be mounted against the front side of the sheetmetal. Essentially, the sheetmetal can be sandwiched between the fairlead mounting plate and the fairlead itself. This will provide a more rigid support for the fairlead, the fairlead will extend beyond the bumper, fender etc for side pulls, while allowing the original bumper and sheetmetal to remain. I started to go this route, then decided to rebuild the bumper after spending 15 minutes trying to straighten the sheetmetal from the beating it took during the first 10 miles of it's life.
I no this was long, but I thought it might be a consideration of anyone thinking of this type of mounting.
I hope I can be of assistance to anyone interested. Please send questions.
Yammer_Hummer
I've had my Warn 3000 mounted to the top rack for 5 years. Love it there... Never gave me a problem.
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