Bash,

Thanks for the info!

Let me see if I understand correctly. My wheels, engine cases, cylinders, silencers, Cascade products, etc., have already been polished to the point where they are smooth. Should I just use a soft cloth and Mothers polish to shine them up ocassionally or do I still put the polish on with a Scotch pad and then wipe off the residue after it dries?

What is a Scotch pad and where do I get one?

How about a product called Heavy Metal? That is what Cascade uses to finish their products.

 

If I might add another trick that I used to do.

We used to jack up the rear of the quad...put it in 3rd to get the axle moving at a good clip, then use scotchbrite pads to polish the axle. Works great on the yamaha's!

 

What ever you do, dont try the "Cold Oven" EZ-off in the blue can. I could not get the anodizing to budge...

RoostKing...

 

Rob4092,

I would test an area with just the cloth and polish to see about how far from having a bright, shiny surface that they are. If the Mothers polish and cloth won't do it, then try them in the least abrasive order such as 000 steel wool, then the super fine Scotch Brite pad (grey) until you find which one will do the job and then work your way back down to the cloth. What you don't want to do is use a courser abrasive than what you actually need. That will only cause you more polishing to get out any minor surface haze. If your wheels and etc.. were shiny at one time, using the Mothers and a cloth should do it. The Scotch Brite pad is only for getting them smooth, not for touch-ups. Also, you don't let the Mothers polish dry. You rub it in until it starts turning black. Then, before it drys, you wipe it off with a clean cloth and buff it out.

I'm not familiar with Heavy Metal, so I can't comment on it.

A Scotch Brite pad is a 3-M product. It is a pad similar to a scouring pad used in a kitchen to clean up dirty dishes, sinks, etc..

You shouldn't have a hard time finding them. Call your local auto body parts shop. They should have them in about 1 foot squares that you can cut down to fit your hand. I've already described their colors and roughness in earlier post.



Roostking,

I didn't think that the cold Easy-Off would work, that is why I listed the original Easy-Off oven cleaner to use. By the way, that anodize coating is tougher than you would think huh?

 

Bash,
Yea, i kinda thaought the cold oven stuff would actually work better for some reason, but it didnt. I evn left it on all night, still no change. Oh well, I will be trying the other stuff here after a while...

Thanks for the advice earlier as well,

RoostKing...

 

Here's a small tip that i found to work well .
Once you have polished your wheels you still have the black aluminum
dust and old polish .
Take some cooking flour on a rag or your fingers and just rub the
black film away saves alot of rubbin.


99 Blaster
FMF Fatty ,FMF Ram, Power Core2, K&N air,reed spacers
Missouri TT Racer........
http://www.angelfire.com/mo2/quadracing/index.html

 

You spelt "constructive" wrong.

 

blaster rims are steel right?

 

I had some anodizing done on my Banshee. Any pieces that I did like, they dipped in an acid that ate the anodizing right off. They did this for free, but I'm sure your local shop will charge you something.