Does anyone have actual experience "with the various different brands" of clutches available IE: EBC, Barnett, Etc. I'm curious as to which one holds up the best to the abuse of racing? My son seems to be burning them up some what often. It's "not rider error" as he's know's how to operate a clutch. He's been riding with one for 4-5 years. His Blaster is a fairly pumped up: 240 cc blaster, port polished, bigger carb, PVL ignition. The problems seemed to start after I had someone do a rebuild. Within 2 races the clutch smoked out. I gave it back to the guy, he put a new one in and 2 races later it's toast. Based on this and other issues with the guy "I won't go back to him" for help or questions (more pain than gain). So... I beleive he was puttin in stock OEM parts, which I 'm sure aren't the greatest, but I gotta believe they should last longer than what I'm seeing..? Agree??? Now.. does anyone know what after market brand is the best??? I want something good, but not ridiculously stiff as my (12 year old) son has to be able to pull the lever in and out. If need be I am considering a Magura hydraulic clutch assy. Per the EBC clutch info, it says there kit is 10% stiffer than stock. If that's 10% over all? it doesn't sound like much.. 10% per each spring maybe? I called Barnett and they said there's is 5-7 % stiffer than stock. I also see that Barnett offers a kit with Kevlar Friction plates, any thoughts on whether their worth the cost over the EBC friction plates?

Rude Dog

 

well he must be slipping the cluth quite often. Cause I had rode (and raced) a blaster for 3 years on the original clutch. But now that I am 15 I have upgraded considerably. well I would have to say try goin with just a ebc replacement and see if it holds up longer then OEM parts. One thing I would look into on a blaster, I dont know if it concerns to your problem, is the clutch cable. It seemed to wear out quite fast, and caused considerable arm fatigue. Now when that happens he might not be pulling the clutch in all the way in it is wearing faster.

 

Is the lever adjusted so when the clutch is fully engaged when the lever is released?

Does he subconciously pull the clutch a small amount while racing? (I catch myself doing that on my bike cause im holding on so tight)

What kinda tranny oil are you running?

Is the oil leaking out or burning up somehow?

Seems like a problem other than the clutch to me, unless he was installing used ones. Another thing you can try is buy some silicone spray and spray some down in the clutch cable, itll help quite a bit.

 

The play at the lever & perch area seemed okay. I took the clutch apart without checking the other end area where the cable meets the lever @ the engine case. I'm kind of suspecting that this could have been set wrong. I did also find the cushion ring in the wrong position. Not sure if that matters much?

I'll pretty sure he's not "riding" the clutch. Like I mentioned he been ATV's with clutches a while now and I've never had an issue with him & clutches in the past. He rides all of our family ATV's Banshee, YFZ450, 250R Etc and to date I never had a clutch issue with any of them.

I'm using the Honda 85-90 weight. It's in the red bottle. It says it for 2 stroke transmissions. I'm alittle suspicious of as it looks kind of thin. I think I might change to something else..

I don't see any leaks and don't see any excessive smoke like it's burning?
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Addl info...

Clutch basket has chatter marks on the sides of the fingers and the Gear on it has slop (moves). I ordered a new one along with new push rods and the round (ball) bearing.

Rude Dog

 

I have heard that soaking the clutch plates in oil overnight will prolong the life of the plates, just food for thouight.

 

I would go with barnett clutch kit I have heard that they are pretty good...Yea you soak the fiber disks in oil for about a half an our and then put them in as what the stock specs are it should go metal fiber and continue in that pattern...Make sure that you get the torque spec on the springs and tighten them in a star pattern...Also you should mark on the case somewhere when the arm is engaged and disengaged but in your case the guy already took it apart...So when you get the new clutch in make sure that the clutch is fully engaging. Just give an upate on how you are making out.

 

There shouldn't be anything wrong with the Honda oil if it's synthetic. 80weight gear oil isn't as thichk as most people think because gear lubes are rated different than motor oil. So a 80 weight gear oil is like 40 weight motor oil.
The guy you had work on the blaster may have put a cheap clutch in it like a Moose brand. i don't think you can go wrong with either a Barnett or EBC clutch. I don't let anyone work on my quads.

 

Thanks guys for all the input. I'll be doing the re-install process myself this time so I know it'll be done correctly. Also, as added protection I re-read the manual to brush up on the process as an additional security/sanity check. After reading it, I had no surprises IE: the process was/is as I remember It. Will see if it holds up through the last (4) races, (2 in Tulare & 2 in Madera).

Thanks, Rude Dog

As LT80 states: TT Racing.... Rules